Top Chef’s Silvia Barban combines her native Northern Italian cuisine with the fresh tastes of her mom’s southern Calabrian heritage at Fort Greene’s LaRina Pastificio & Vino

by silvia barban

New York City had always been a dream for me. I grew up in a small town in Northern Italy with about 5,000 inhabitants, so coming here was a world of change. Even while happily working at a well-known restaurant in Italy, I knew I was ready for something new when I got the offer to help open Giovanni Rana Pastificio & Cucina in the Meatpacking District. Initially hired to just work the opening, I wound up staying for two years. While at Rana, I was introduced to Giulia Pelliccioni, one of the owners of Aita (132 Greene Avenue in Brooklyn) by her brother, Luca. Giulia and I hit it off, and when Aita needed a chef, I took over the kitchen. I started going to the market every week and we began using more local produce. Roberto, the co-owner, let me put my mark on the menu and the regulars were supportive of the changes.

Along the way, Giulia and I became roommates in Fort Greene. One day we were eating in a local restaurant on Myrtle Avenue, and began thinking that it would be great to open a place in the neighborhood. When we noticed a spot was on the market, we jumped at the opportunity, and that’s how LaRina Pastificio & Vino was born. It’s a real up-and-coming community here, and we were excited to bring something new to it.

While we were getting ready to open LaRina, I found myself on Top Chef (season 14). I remembered watching it in Italy, but never thought I’d actually be on the show. It’s funny because my friend was going through the casting process and used me as a reference. The booker called and, while we were speaking, encouraged me to apply. It was an amazing experience, and I made a lot of great new friends along the way.

Chef Barban’s
Cocoa Tagliatelle
Makes one serving

To make 4oz Pasta:
1 cup pasta flour (Spadoni if available), plus addition to flour work surface
2 teaspoons cocoa powder
1 whole egg
1 teaspoon olive oil
Water (if necessary)

Mix flour and cocoa powder into a mound, and using your fingers, create a crater in the center. Add egg and olive oil into the crater and beat with a fork. Incorporate egg-oil into the flour (if the dough seems too dry, add a touch of water). Let dough rest for 15 minutes. Dust the work surface with flour, and roll the dough out with a rolling pin until it is ½-inch thick. Fold the dough into a loose, 10-inch-long roll and cut it into one-inch wide strips. When all strips have been cut, unroll each one to form the tagliatelle.

For the Walnut Pesto:
1 ounce toasted walnuts
1 ounce Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese
1 ounce pecorino cheese
2 tablespoons vegetable stock
1.5 ounces extra-virgin olive oil

Preheat an oven to 300°F. In a medium-size baking dish, toast the walnuts for five minutes. Add the nuts to a food processor and blend with cheeses and stock. While the food processoris blending, slowly drizzle in the olive oil.

For the Porcini:
2 ounces fresh porcini mushrooms
1 clove garlic, peeled and chopped
2 tablespoons olive oil
Parsley leaves, to garnish
Cut the porcini in half (or quarters, depending on their size).
Sauté the mushrooms in a hot pan with garlic, olive oil, and parsley.

To Serve:
Salt, to season water
1/2 teaspoon butter
1 cup vegetable stock
3 chives, chopped

In a large stock pot filled with boiling water, cook the pasta for two minutes. In a sauté pan, set over medium heat, add the butter and let it slowly brown. Add the porcini and one cup vegetable stock. Drain the pasta and add to the pan with the porcini and cook for a minute. At the end, add the pesto and stir until well mixed. Top with chopped chives.

WINE PAIRING
2011 Elisabetta
Dalzocchio Pinot Nero

“One of my favorites on the list,” said Barban. “This red has notes of wild strawberries and plums with a touch of leather and wet bark. It’s very elegant and one of the fi nest expressions of Pinot Nero, which can easily resemble a Burgundy. The low tannins, smooth structure, freshness, and subtle earthiness make it a perfect match with the cocoa tagliatelle. The fruity profile will stand out with the cocoa pasta, and the herbaceous wood notes pair perfectly with the mushrooms. The freshness and body of the wine is great with the creamy sauce, too.”

LaRina Pastificio & Vino
387 Myrtle Avenue / 718.852.0001 / larinabk.com