A cuban cuisine-inspired restaurant generates year-round interest in one of New Jersey’s most summer-centric cities

by Jessica Jones-Gorman • Photos BY Amessé Photography

Joe Cetrulo knows a lot about traditional Italian food. The veteran restaurateur and his brother, Michael, are locally famous for their culinary businesses: Scalini Fedeli in Tribeca and Chatham, La Campagna in Morristown, Il Mondo Vecchio in Madison, Sirena in Long Branch, and Stella Marina in Asbury, among others— all of which have captured the attention of foodies and critics alike. But several years ago, Cetrulo decided that New Jersey needed something more than just ridiculously delicious dishes of hand-rolled gnocchi a la pesto and pots of irresistible red sauce.

“This space, which is literally at the opposite end of the boardwalk as Stella Marina, became available in 2008, and after taking a look at it, I felt there was a need for something more seasonal here…something very South Beach that would follow the mid-century theme that has really captivated Asbury over the past decade,” Cetrulo said.

So, he enlisted the help of Nick Oliveri, a bar and nightclub expert and co-owner of Stella. Together, the pair would create a Cuban-themed eatery with oceanfront appeal.

“Nick had been looking to open a Latin-style restaurant, which at the time was not a particularly popular or in-demand genre,” Cetrulo said. “But just looking at this setting, seeing all of the outdoor possibilities and beach front inspiration, I knew it was going to be a good fit.”

In 2011, after a couple of years of research and rebuilding, Cubacan was born.

“We actually just started Googling ‘Old World Cuba’ to gain inspiration and earn insight into what buildings, houses, and restaurants looked like there,” Cetrulo recalled. “We did all the design work ourselves, which took months, and had signature focal pieces sent in from Miami. Our beautiful columns were hand painted by a Cuban refugee.”

The menu was built using trial and error, with both owners sampling a variety of Cuban dishes that would best suit a sophisticated Asbury clientele.
Signature dishes that immediately put the restaurant on the map include Mariscada, a plate of clams, mussels, shrimp, scallops, calamari, cod, and rice in a spicy tomato broth; Paella Valenciana, which is comprised of shrimp, scallops, mussels, clams, chicken, chorizo sausage, yellow rice, peas, peppers, and olives; and Ropa Vieja, a braised beef brisket topped with peppers, onions, manzanilla olives, peas, rice, and beans.

Traditional empanadas filled with chorizo and chicken and a good shrimp and garlic sauce also helped pack Cubacan’s tables.

“From the first weekend that we opened, we had tremendous success,” Cetrulo said. “I think a lot of people were curious to see what type of food and atmosphere a Cuban restaurant was going to bring to the boardwalk. We saw great numbers on our very first weekend and by the third weekend we had doubled even those sales.”

The humble Cetrulo calls it luck, but it was more along the lines of innovation: Authentic Churrasco, Arroz con Pollo, and Ceviche were dishes not easily obtainable in New Jersey prior to Cubacan’s opening, so Garden State residents responded. Without even realizing it, Oliveri and Cetrulo created a year-round destination in one of the area’s most summer-centric towns.

“It has been difficult for any bar or restaurant in Asbury to draw a crowd in winter,” Cetrulo said.

“Our summers are increasingly busy, but our winters are not.” But there is something about the lure of this vivacious Cuban venue that continues to draw a crowd, even when there’s snow on the ground.

“We try to keep it fresh, with a great house band and happy hour drink specials,” noted Oliveri. “Asbury itself has changed since we opened here in 2011; there are a lot of new shops and restaurants, which we welcome because each store and eatery brings more business to this strip.”

Cubacan battled Superstorm Sandy in 2012, and required a full renovation afterwards after being open for just one year, but the partners made the best of the rebuild.

“We lost absolutely everything in Sandy,” Cetrulo said. “But we used it as an opportunity to expand, adding an additional 100 seats.”

The restaurant, located directly across the street from the Stone Pony, seats 220 guests in the winter and can accommodate another 150 patrons with its outdoor seating in the summer. Although they are served year round, its signature mojitos and small bites attract a multitude of transient beachgoers who Cetrulo defines as Cubacan’s core clientele.

“Strolling off the beach…dropping in for a cocktail and a bite to eat—that’s what this is all about,” he concluded. “It’s a casual atmosphere made for diners who want something different.”

Cubacan
800 Ocean Avenue, Asbury Park
732.774.3007 / cubacanrestaurant.com