With its novel beer and music pairings and 10-course tasting menu, Fair Weather Bushwick is a new wind that brings all things delicious story and photos

by Michael Tulipan

With its cozy 20-seat dining room and the personal touch of owner Ebru Brun, a former textile importer who greets diners and runs the front of house, Tuesdays at Fair Weather Bushwick feel like a private party. Kicking off at 7:30 p.m. with a bubbly reception, the novel restaurant’s 10-course tasting ($65) begins a half-hour later, and is designed to appeal to all the senses—Chef/Partner John Creger personally introducing each visually arresting course, pairing it with beer (optional) and curating music to match each dish.

Just opened in March, the restaurant highlights the seasonal New American cooking of Creger in an intimate setting, and in a still-underserved area of the borough. While it offers daily a la carte lunch, dinner, and brunch on weekends, Tuesday nights present the biggest culinary show.

A native of Baltimore, Creger grew up in a culinary household; his father is a chef and other siblings work in the industry. He is also self-taught—working under Terrance Brennan at Artisanal Bistro, Olivier Reginensi at Le Cirque, Julia Jaksik at Employees Only, and Brad Farmerie at Public and Saxon and Parole. He was also the chef at Gallow Green.

Creger’s weekly-changing menu features produce from local farms, seasonal seafood, and local, organically raised meat. Highlights include: “deconstructed” Cold Spring River Clam Chowder, a clam grilled and cooked in its own juices, then presented in the shell with potato puree, bacon, crispy leeks, and trout roe; Barber’s Farm Cauliflower Textures, slow roasted cauliflower florets over a Bengal curry puree; and Four Story Hill Farm Pork Belly, glazed with harissa and maple sous vide, and served with saffron poached carrots and black quinoa. The menu creates a connection between diner and producer by listing the provenance of produce, seafood, and meats. An optional beer pairing features craft beers from Bushwick’s Braven Brewing Company, Evil Twin, and Blackberry Farm ($30), while the concise wine list focuses on European boutique producers and natural varieties.

With no dish more than $19, fare is affordable and neighborhood friendly. Quinoa Fritters, a gluten-free take on a Spanish favorite, are made with quinoa and served with saffron aioli and sardine or anchovy, while pillowy Potato Gnocchi are topped with chanterelles, black garlic, meyer lemon, and gremolata, and Beef Short Ribs arrive atop smoked Gouda polenta.

For pairings, Creger suggests one beer for each pair of courses. For example, he joins Hof ten Dormaal Saison with Welsh Rarebit Potato (with Parmesan and herb oil) and the Beet Ravioli, served with pesto ricotta, and spiced pepitas. Crooked Stave Progenitor is recommended with the cauliflower textures with gremolata and brown butter powder, as well as the smoked trout, with capers, grapes, sherry vinaigrette, and frisée.

About the music pairings, Creger explained, “I play mostly all instrumental tracks throughout the tasting menu. I chose ‘Ghostwriter’ by RJD2 for the first course, Welsh Rarebit Potato, because of the track’s slow mellow build and its mix of calm energy. It’s a good song to start the evening and set the mood for the guests. ‘Budapest Eskimos’ by The Lushlife Project is paired with the chocolate dessert, Whiskey, Chocolate, Smoke. This is a super-chill track, and I feel like it has somewhat of a closing feel, yet in an energetic way, which works well for the end of the meal. There are some vocals mixed in, reflecting that guests are by then well acquainted and having conversations.”

Lunch Monday through Friday is a casual affair, packing big flavors such as: ‘Nduja Mac & Cheese a showcase for the spicy, spreadable Italian pork sausage, baked with rigatoni pasta and smoked Gouda, aged cheddar, and fontina, with a quinoa-herb crust; slow-roasted Pork Belly Hash with peppers, onions, house-made honey chipotle sauce, and a runn egg; or Baby Kale & Quinoa Salad with tomatoes, cucumbers, and carrots in a spicy Aleppo pepper-mustard dressing, which can be amped up with the addition of an egg, pork belly, or hanger steak.

Weekend Brunch features creative takes on classics such as Matcha Green Tea Pancakes with ginger syrup and vanilla granola, or Churro Waffle, a Mexican-spiced Belgian-style waffle with cloves, allspice, cinnamon, ginger, and orange zest, topped with berries and hazelnut butter. Savory options include a Breakfast Sandwich with guests’ choice of mesquite smoked turkey or avocado on a baguette with basil pesto, honey chipotle, and an egg, and a Croque Madame with Black Forest ham, egg, Gruyere cheese, and rarebit béchamel.

Formerly a coffee shop with the same name, the intimate brick-walled room was renovated to include a kitchen space. Reclaimed wood tables fill the dining room, while works by a rotating series of local artists adorn the walls. A secret garden hidden away from the bustle of the city, the backyard has an additional 24 seats.

Creger and Brun also use Fair Weather Brooklyn to showcase Brooklyn products and artisans whenever possible. The plates are made by ceramic artist Wynne Noble of Noble Plateware, while the beverage program highlights Braven Brewing Company, Brooklyn Roasting Company coffee, Bruce Cost Ginger Ale, and Bellocq teas, among others.

Fair Weather Bushwick
274 Wyckoff Avenue / 347.305.3736 / fairweatherbushwick.com