GuiseppeZanotti59666_credit The Selby
With leather as his palette and music as his inspiration, one of Italy’s top shoe designers has created wearable art that’s as suited to the red carpet as it is to the dance floor

by Laura D.C. Kolnoski

Music and cutting-edge style have always gone hand-in-hand, with legions of chic celebrities inspiring fashion designers, and vice-versa. Italian designer Giuseppe Zanotti, who revolutionized neo high-style footwear, embodies the height of hip in both worlds. His younger days were spent in Italian nightclubs spinning tunes as a DJ—and the trends he observed during those formative years set the foundation for an empire. Zanotti’s entire career is an example of the power of recognizing and embracing inspiration.

Born and raised in San Mauro Pascoli, a seaside town with a long tradition of Italian leatherworking and shoe-making, designing shoes was “a natural consequence,” the designer said. “Music has always been my passion and part of my DNA. It was such a special time—when clubs and nightlife were the best places for new trends to start. Fashion and music were particularly entwined, they influenced each other continuously.”

Zanotti also worked at a local radio station, introducing previously unknown American musical genres and artists, including jazz, soul and funk from the Detroit Emeralds, Weather Report, and Jimi Hendrix to the Jackson 5 and Al Green.

“I loved the time I was a DJ, and I still incorporate music into everything I do,” he said. “But my true calling soon took over and I realized that I wanted to be a designer.”

Inspired by Paris and Milan fashion shows, Zanotti began working as a freelance designer in the early 1980s for small shoe companies, eventually becoming a consultant for some of the world’s leading houses, including Valentino, Balmain, and Vera Wang.

“I learned a lot working with iconic designers, but soon realized I had a clear vision of what I wanted, and decided to follow my instincts and create my own collections,” Zanotti said. So, in 1990, he bought a shoe factory in San Mauro Pascoli and began manufacturing his own products, setting up additional departments producing jewels and heels. Combining creativity and elevated craftsmanship, he added skilled embroiders to his growing staff.

INVESTORS SPREAD

Mixing “innocence, rock and roll, sex appeal, and innovation,” his game-changing techniques, enhanced with gems and embellishments no one else was producing, meant that each shoe was an original, utilizing time-honored artisanal techniques.

“The embellishments are inspired by elements that surround music and nightlife,” Zanotti said. “When I started, my dream was to create ‘Wow!’ shoes for celebrities and musicians to wear for special occasions…something unique and extremely beautiful.”

Crystals, dramatic floral motifs, sensuous adornments, striking shapes, and metallic detailing are among his signature designs. Classic genres are not forgotten, though; stylish pumps, for example, are presented in a dazzling array of colors and elegant fabric and natural hides, such as satin, suede, crocodile and ostrich prints, and a stunning leopard print calf hair pump is anointed with crystals.

When Zanotti’s first collection under his own name debuted at New York City’s Plaza Hotel in 1994, buyers and celebrities took notice; musicians leading the way. Madonna was the first boldface name to purchase Zanotti sandals, and within five years, she was joined by Jennifer Lopez, Kylie Minogue, Penelope Cruz, Charlize Theron, and Cameron Diaz, among others. Zanotti opened his first store in Milan in 2000, followed by boutiques in New York, Paris, London, Dubai, Moscow, and Hong Kong. Today, 97 stores worldwide bear the name, with the 100th due to open by Christmas. Giuseppe Zanotti shoes are sold in 500 additional locations around the globe, including department stores and franchisees.

Expanding his offerings, the designer presented his first jewelry collection in 2010 with necklaces, bracelets, and body belts. His Giuseppe Homme line, featuring men’s shoes, hip-hop-inspired sneakers, elegant moccasins, and biker boots followed. Bags, small leather goods, and ready-to-wear leather pants and jackets have also been added.

His luxe hip-hop inspired sneakers gained particular notice.

“I started designing sneakers just to experiment with something new,” Zanotti said. “I felt the market was in need of a new shoe concept, a luxury sneaker…comfortable and easy to wear. However, I would have never imagined designing sneakers would be such a successful endeavor. I honestly think that nobody expected this boom, and they are now, of course, a huge part of the footwear business.”

Admirers included Kanye West, who asked Zanotti to design a pair of studded sandals with pearls for his debut show in Paris (they went for $5,800). In addition, West “fell in love” with a design he saw at the Zanotti showroom in Manhattan. He asked the designer to make an all-white version to match the cover of his Cruel Summer album. Janet Jackson requested custom-make exclusive designs for her Unbreakable World Tour, including some based on the brand’s sneakers. (Similar styles are available and can be seen on Zanotti’s website.)

For fall 2015, the designer collaborated with Korean pop music icon G-Dragon from the group Big Bang, part of his expansion into the Asian market. His Rebel Angels Collection of shoes, bags, and ready-to-wear pieces, (debuting spring and summer of 2016) draws on California inspirations, including the Pacific Coast Highway, the glitz and glamour of LA, the edgy vibe of the Sunset Strip, and the chic ambiance of Rodeo Drive.

“It felt amazing to see my designs at major events and on red carpets,” Zanotti said with a smile. “I am grateful and happy when I see my creations on celebrities. It makes me proud, and certainly shows I’m going in the right direction.”

That direction has led the designer to no small amount of industry recognition. He received the Designer of the Year Award five times (2000, 2003, 2007, 2009, and 2014) from Fairchild Fashion
Media and Footwear News magazine. In 2010, he won Marie Claire’s Prix d’Excellence de la Mode prize for the best footwear collection.

The New Year will be an exciting one for the brand, too. Zanotti’s representatives hinted at “some important celebrity collaborations coming up,” and promised “tripling our factory size to increase production capacity by 25 percent.” The U.S. flagship store on Madison Avenue will be doubling in size, and a new location at the Mayfair is also in the works.

But what does Zanotti see as the next phase of the trend-setting fashion-forward company he created?

“As a designer, I am constantly projected into a world that does not exist yet,” he explained. “What I really hope is to always develop innovative and avant-garde designs, keeping in mind the tradition of ‘Made in Italy.’ My focus is always on the future—one that I must create, while staying true to my DNA.”

5_24_13_GuiseppeZanotti59850 credit by The Selby

Giuseppe Zanotti Design
806 Madison Avenue / 212.650.0455
giuseppezanottidesign.com