A Beacon Of New Jersey Dining Has Been Reinvented For Modern Clientele, While Retaining Its Heart

By Laura D.C. Kolnoski

The myriad attributes that make the Fromagerie restaurant revered the welcoming warmth of its fireplaces, the gracious yet cozy historic décor, the attentive staff, and of course, the food have long been lauded by dining devotees. Once considered a destination just for special occasions and deep pocketed epicureans, it’s now enjoying a resurgence and attracting a wider audience with a refreshed look, updated and expanded menu, and more accessible pricing.

Fromagerie-073

Always decorated for each season, the Fromagerie takes on a special aspect during the holidays. Following a renovation by current owners Paul and Enilda Sansone (of Sansone Route 1 Automall fame), diners have three sections to settle into, each with its own welcoming ambiance.

The updated bar area now has its own happy hour menu (4:00 to 7:00 p.m. Monday through Friday), with selections under $10, including crab cakes and a variety of sliders as well as reduced prices on beer, wine, and cocktails.

The updated main menu was implemented this fall, offering more varied dishes and price points along with daily food specials. The goal is to introduce new items while maintaining some of the restaurant’s beloved classics.

Fromagerie-091

BK WINDOW SPREAD

In the kitchen, traditions forged by original owners Markus and Hubert Peter (who opened the Fromagerie in 1976) and updated by their onetime line cook David Burke (who went on to culinary fame and owned the restaurant from 2006 to 2011), are respected as well as reinvented.

“We went from a more traditional to a more continental menu suitable for everyone,” said Paul Sansone, Sr. “We’ve always been known as a fish and steak house, but now we have a menu that meets all price points.

”Fresh salmon, veal, and a luscious scallop crudo appetizer are among the new offerings. At a recent menu tasting, industry staff were treated to those, along with pork chops, pastas, lobster, day boat scallops, dover sole (flown in twice per week), and a menu standout—the exclusive Pat La Frieda cheeseburger that draws crowds for the Fromagerie’s “Tuesday Burger night,” when for $25, carnivores can enjoy their burger with a glass of house wine or a bottle of domestic or imported beer. (On Mondays, half priced bottles of wine are available.) The restaurant’s signature dish, however, remains the Halibut Oreganta, craved by a still vigorous percentage of devotees.

Fromagerie-105

Seasonal specials of the house will continue to be offered, as will Chateaubriand, Beef Wellington, and the venerable tableside Caesar salad presentation. The upstairs dining room and bar have also experienced renovations, with bathrooms added and an overall fresh look provided. Enilda sansone oversaw all décor updates after the couple assumed ownership, adding personal touches along the way while working with local interior designer Jill Ryan.

The restaurant’s calendar will be peppered with special events like wine tastings, parties, and holiday dining (information is available on the house website). While closed Christmas day, on New Year’s Eve, the Fromagerie will be open for dinner, with the regular menu augmented by holiday specials. Private events may also be scheduled; a wine cellar featuring enticing international selections has a private dining room for up to 12 persons, and special Events Coordinator Kathryn Myszka has joined the staff to assist with creating winning private soirees. The restaurant’s Friday and Saturday jacket policy for men is now optional.
“Rather than being thought of as solely a destination restaurant for special occasions, we want the Fromagerie to be accessible to everyone,” Paul said. “Individuals, families after work groups, and couples should think of us as a go to spot for a reasonably priced meal in exceptionally warm, welcoming, comfortable surroundings where they can feel at home.”

The general manager is now noted industry luminary Richard Karyczak of Highlands, a sommelier who trained for three years at the American Sommelier Association. His 27 years of experience in top New York and New Jersey dining establishments includes being David Burke’s Wine Director for almost three years while Burke owned Fromagerie. He later helped Burke open Fishtail in New York City. A chef for 15 years, Karyczak was a chef at the famed French cuisine standout Chez Catherine in Westfield, and opened the Rail House 1449 in Rahway. He was also wine director of the Stage House in Scotch Plains and worked at Restaurant Nicholas in Red Bank as captain.

Fromagerie-143

“It’s great to be back to the Fromagerie and find this amazing opportunity to work with the Sansones and the Fromagerie family,” Karyczak said.

Head Chef Matt McKee, a Middletown native, has had his position for about eight months, having previously cooked at Union Square’s Blue Water Grille and Artisanal in Midtown Manhattan, as well as Red Bank’s Molly Pitcher Inn.

“I’m bringing my New York City training to this area and striving for excellence,” said McKee, who will be incorporating local seasonal produce into his creations. “Growing up around here, the Fromagerie holds a special place in my heart. I want my food to be fresh, look good, and taste better. I started washing dishes in a nursing home and paid my dues, cooking on the line for ten years. Now I get my shot to show what I’ve learned and can do.”
“Restaurateur” is a familiar title for Paul Sansone Sr., who owned the Woodlake Country Club in Lakewood some 30 years ago; an experience that gave him insight into the food business. He met Enilda through a mutual friend in 1990 (the couple married in 1994). Active philanthropists, [restaurant profile] the Sansones run The Enilda and Paul Sansone Sr. Family Foundation, founded four years ago, and donate to food banks.

Fromagerie-151

“We reached a time in our lives to start giving back more than in the past,” Paul said. A consistent donor to St. Jude Children’s Research Hospital, he was honored as that organization’s Man of the Year four years ago.

Even while immersed in their car dealership responsibilities when the Sansones heard David Burke was closing the Fromagerie, they wanted the legacy of the fine dining institution to continue, and so purchased the property and business. The changes they have made are already delivering results as previous customers have returned while new, curious diners are discovering what makes the location so unique.

Born in Plainfield, Paul Sansone grew up in New York City tenements, returning to the Garden State at age 17. He began selling cars at age 18 with his uncle in Dunellen, then opened his own used car business in Fords. In 1966, Paul Sr. opened a Toyota franchise and single handedly built the business to encompass 21 franchises around the state, as well as in Florida and Pennsylvania. He eventually gave two to his son, Paul Jr., and sold the rest.

Paul Sr. accepted the 2016 Employer of the Year award in Reno, Nevada from the American Legion for his automotive industry training program for military personnel and their spouses. His dealership employs about 20 “graduates” while he has placed about 130 at other dealerships.

Fromagerie-175

The Sansones are equally committed to ensuring the esteemed historic legacy of the Fromagerie remains vital in today’s changing culinary landscape. “We are once again creating wonderful and delicious memories for its guests,” Enilda said.

Fromagerie-180

Fromagerie
26 Ridge Road, Rumson / 732.852.2650 / fromagerienj.com