Executive Chef Andrea Della Pina brings his homestyle cooking techniques to Patrizia’s of Red Bank
by Jessica Jones-Gorman • Photos by Doug Polle
When Andrea Della Pina was growing up in Tuscany, living in the province of Massa, he inherited a passion for cooking from his father.
“I can remember watching him prepare dishes,” Della Pina said. “And through the eyes of a child I believed his skills were like magic. As soon as I had the chance, I began to help him and working by his side brought me such great happiness. I knew from that point forward that cooking would be my future.” So Della Pina honed his skills alongside his father, perfecting the basics and building a solid recipe base. But in order to master the fine techniques of cooking, he enrolled in one of Italy’s top culinary schools.
“I knew I would never be able to cook the Cacciucco alla Lidornese [Fish Soup of the Sea] without his help, so I decided to attend the school of the masters—Maffei and Paganini—at the Institute of Alberghiero Marina di Massa.” Soon after his graduation, Della Pina started working in the kitchen of the Hotel Excelsior in Marina di Massa, part of the property of the Lords Toti, where he was involved in the preparation of appetizers.
He took a job at Ristorante Lorenzo in Forte dei Marmi and Bartolini in Florence, while dreaming of opening his own place. “In my heart I always dreamed of opening my own restaurant,” the chef said. “And small, elegant cuisine was the focus of that dream.” In 2006, that dream came true, as Della Pina launched Au Cul de Sac in Pietrasanta, a bistro based strongly on his culinary upbringing.
“I continuously researched flavors and decided to develop a menu that was true to my Tuscan origins,” Della Pina said. “In school I found that a balance of sauces was the basis of any Tuscan cuisine. So I created a delicious Pommarola [marinara] and my own Ragù di Carne [bolognese] to serve as the menu staples. I designed a L’onglet de Boeuf ai Porcini [steak covered in porcini mushrooms] and Paccheri alla Carbonara di Mare [seafood carbonara] as my signature dishes. His kitchen was inspired by the scents and flavors of his homeland—Italian aromas mixed with some French technique. “The ability to create new dishes made me proud to have taken this road,” Della Pina said. “I felt very close to my father as I prepared each meal.”
In 2011, Della Pina moved to the United States where he met Giacomo Alaio at Patrizia’s of Brooklyn. “He offered me a position in the kitchen of Patrizia’s of Stamford, and it was there where I started to learn about Italian-American cooking next to Chef Greg,” Della Pina said. “I began to cook the fabulous Scarpariello, which is virtually unknown in Italy, and spaghetti and meatballs, which is nowhere to be found on Tuscan menus. After six months, I covered the role of chef. So I had a chance to try my hand with the menu without ever leaving the style of Patrizia.”
Della Pina also worked with other restaurants in town: Petrarca Restaurant in Tribeca, Fabio Cucina on East 52nd Street, Quattro Pazzi in Stamford, CT, and Bella Nonna in Greenwich, CT. He currently brings his authentic cooking style and technique to Patrizia’s of Red Bank, the latest twostoried, vaulted ceilinged location of the Brooklyn family-style Neopolitan restaurant group where the idea is to reproduce grandma’s Sunday dinner traditions.
“At the restaurant we are very attentive to the quality of our products,” Della Pina said. “I can say with satisfaction that brings me back to the pantry scents and flavors I shared with my father in the ‘Bel Paese’ [beautiful country] of Italy.” Della Pina’s favorite ingredients are mushrooms, cheese and fresh pasta, which he makes daily at Patrizia’s. His homemade spaghetti has become one of the Red Bank restaurant’s signature dishes.
“I’ve created many dishes that I am proud of,” Della Pina concluded. “I go willingly to discover new tastes and of that, my father would be proud.
Patrizias Pizza & Pasta
28 Broad Street, Red Bank / 732.741.5555
patriziasofbrooklyn.com