A flambé’d sangria to break the chill, why comfort food matters, and goodbye to a visionary

by Chef Peter Botros

IN PRAISE OF COMFORT FOOD
In the fall of 2014, I stepped into The Stone House at Clove Lakes for the first time as its owner. The place was in desperate need of TLC, but I could see the beauty and feel the history. As I sat with my then partner, Chris Lacey, we discussed the direction of the food and beverage programs, and decided upon a contemporary American menu, with a focus on local produce and seasonality.

As it was autumn, we accentuated hearty, warm flavors, and the first dish we composed was the now famous Red Wine Braised Lamb Shank. Tender braised lamb in a bold sauce (made from the drippings, red wine, and fall herbs), we served it with creamy whipped potatoes, and the entire dish makes you feel like you are being hugged from the inside a sensation I want all fall and winter meals to convey.

Our Warm Sangria brings the heat, too. We start with an extra large snifter, a cinnamon stick, and a shot of Grand Marnier, then flambé the liqueur and swirl until the glass becomes hot and the cinnamon has released its oils. We then use house made sangria to extinguish the flame. The result is a delight perfect to sip after dinner while watching the crackle of the fire. The Stone House at Clove Lakes, 1150 Clove Road, thestonehousesi.com

Safe Shores, Tony!
Everyone today is a “foodie” a term most chefs I know hate. From their perspective, it signals a person who thinks he or she is an expert, and therefore their judgments carry more weight. I actually embrace the term, and choose to view foodies differently. I see them as passionate and typically adventurous eaters. Before I was a chef and restaurateur, I was a self proclaimed foodie, and can attribute a lot of early enthusiasm to chef, author, and TV personality Anthony Bourdain. His shows were an amazing insight into the mind of a chef, as well as a celebration of the planet’s abundant cultures and cuisines, and his travels introduced me to many ingredients and styles of cooking. He would often refer to food as the world’s most powerful tool, in part because of its capacity to bring together the most unlikely confluences of people. Tony, as he was affectionately called by those close to him, also wrote one of the most influential books of our day among chefs and other food professionals, Kitchen Confidential: Adventures in the Culinary Underbelly (Ecco/ Harper Perennial, 2007) an unvarnished and detailed examination of restaurant culture, including his and others’ substance abuse issues. In June, at the age of 61, a man that seemed to so enjoy the best life has to offer decided to end his. The news devastated the food world, and was a very tough pill for me to swallow, personally. It wasn’t until his passing that I realized the breadth of impact he had on my life and the path I chose to take. I will be forever grateful. Thank you, Tony.

SPECIAL THANKS
In the restaurant business, di cult yet necessary decisions need to be made. In making them, employees are an essential component, and an endless source of inspiration. Considering this, it was tougher than I’d imagined to remain open on holidays in order to fuel the success of my restaurants. Due to the friendly and family oriented relationships I’ve tried to maintain with my staff, I understood the inherent sacrifices they were making. There is no dollar amount that can supplement for time not spent with family no matter the environment I try to create. But, these efforts have enabled us to grow from The Stone House at Clove Lakes into an even larger family of restaurants. Together we gave birth to Violette’s Cellar (2271 Hylan Boulevard, violettescellar.com), Corner House BBQ (102 Lincoln Avenue, cornerhousebbq. com), and Sofia’s Taqueria (977 Bay Street). So, to our customers and our fearless and extraordinary staff, thank you, and Happy Holidays!