THIS TRIO OF ’TENDERS CRAFT MAGIC IN AN OPULENT 1920s MORRISTOWN SHOWPLACE

BY LAURA D.C. KOLNOSKI • PHOTOS BY ROBERT NUZZIE

There is a certain sublime sensation to imbibing in a historic landmark. Since 2014, patrons have been flocking to Jockey Hollow Bar and Kitchen at the Vail Mansion to experience that vibe in a distinctive blend of old-meets-new, where options are many and cocktails from the no less than three bars vie with the eclectic menu for supremacy.

Setting the stage is the Italian Renaissance palazzo-style mansion, built circa 1916 as a residence and a museum for Theodore Vail, president of the American Telephone and Telegraph Company. After Vail died, the building was acquired by Morristown in 1922 for municipal offices. Vacant for decades, it was purchased by noted Chef Chris Cannon, who had it completely restored and renovated. Patrons enter through bronze front doors depicting scenes from local folklore. The mood is further set by a door inside the entry with its original markings: “Morristown Records Vault, April 1865.” The Oyster Bar to the right (originally Vail’s art gallery) is an elegant, large, be-windowed room with 25-foot marble columns, teak accents, and a zinc bar. Two Enomatic wine machines dispense vintages by the glass from around the world. A door behind the bar opens to the outdoor area in season. (Patio seating, which starts in May, offers views of the property’s reflecting pool and downtown Morristown).

Behind the grand staircase is Jockey Hollow’s most popular spot, the Vail Bar; a glam 1920s-style lounge featuring a marble fireplace, long windowed doors, and an almost-hidden sitting room with a red leather sofa. Designed as a library, it is the epicenter of the establishment’s cocktail culture, where the bartenders create seasonally-inspired specialties and an extensive menu of classics, catalogued by distillate. The bar, which seats about 50, contains over 200 spirits, including rare bottles. The after-work crowd unwinds with daily Happy Hours, while classy revelers enjoy a late-night menu mid-week.

Those interested in beer served in a more casual atmosphere head downstairs to the Rathskeller, a German-style beer hall which also serves as the venue’s private event space. Formerly the municipal jail, the red brick Rathskeller hosts live music, cooking and wine classes, weddings, corporate events, and other celebrations. Presiding over it all are Head Bartender James Gelmi and Principal Bartenders Robert Frascella and Cody Blihar, each of whom stresses teamwork as the core of the operation. The trio (part of a seven-member bar staff) circulate among the three bars, but all work at the Vail Bar. Each room has its own menu, though some items are served in all locations.

“We are fortunate because we all get along,” said Gelmi, who has worked at taverns in the Morris and Union County areas for eight years. “It’s a collaborative team; there’s no drama. It’s like coming to work with your friends. We do more to help each other.” In addition to inventory and menu oversight, Gelmi handles training and also joins in prep work.

With 11 years’ experience working in North Jersey, Frascella is Jockey Hollow’s beer specialist.

“Those who are hired here, after an extensive interview process, are passionate people looking to expand both their service skills and knowledge of mixology,” he said, adding that fresh cocktail ingredients are sourced from Ralston Farm’s Hopewell fields. As spring and summer approach, drink offerings transition to sharable libations like sangria and margaritas by the pitcher, along with Tiki-style cocktails and tropical drinks utilizing produce like passion fruit, pineapples, and berries.

“Here, I am able to create in ways I couldn’t elsewhere, due to the inventory and products available,” said Blihar, the newest and youngest bartender, with previous experience in Hunterdon County. “We have a spirit list like you’d find in Manhattan, and everyone here has helped me learn to handle customers in every situation. Teamwork makes the dream work.”

Gelmi offered that Blihar “has a way with customers, especially the ladies.”

In addition to enjoying creative freedom, Gelmi said the establishment is a special place to work, and affords “the opportunity to be around great spirits, managers, and clientele,” adding that the future of its wine, beer, and cocktail programs include expanding to demonstrations and pairing dinners.

Jockey Hollow Bar and Kitchen at the Vail Mansion
110 South Street, Morristown / 973.644.3180 / jockeyhollowbarandkitchen.com