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Lagerfeld, Paris, and their undying design love affair

by Sarah de Brun

Hidden behind Karl Lagerfeld’s ever-present pair of shades, a brilliant mind is continuously at play devising new ways of articulating his half-century of Paris life, love, and design sophistication. Though born in Hamburg, the 82-yearold style legend seems to regard the City of Light in the same way that Woody Allen channels New York—the creative output would be markedly different, if not impossible, without the place-inspiration.

Six decades ago, Lagerfeld completed his secondary school at the Lycee Montaigne in Paris, where he majored in drawing and history. A design competition win secured him as Pierre Balmain’s assistant in 1955 where he stayed for three years. Following a position at Jean Palou designing two haute couture collections, he set off to launch his own brand, the fruits of which received prude criticism due to its short hemlines, scandalous slits, and modern ready-to-wear ease. Still, the designer stayed determined to court his adopted city.

After a fifteen year designing affair with Chloe, Fendi roped Karl in as head designer, and almost two decades later, Chanel followed suit just as he was also launching an eponymous private label. Though his designs for Fendi had and have an Italian quirkiness to them, it is evident that his passion is focused on Chanel (Lagerfeld is head designer and creative director of both fashion houses). He has been pivotal in keeping Coco’s vision alive for thirty years now, while adapting it to his own idea of modernism.

Cut to last fall: Lagerfeld was set to present Chanel’s Métiers d’Art Pre-Fall 2016 in Rome. An annual event the house throws to honor its artisan partners who make everything from Chanel’s embroidery to silver buttons to lace—it is equal parts feast, runway event, and incredible party, held in different cities each year (Salzburg in 2014, Dallas in 2013, and Edinburgh in 2012).

The Rome runway show concept—an ode to Paris—was adopted long before the heart-wrenching terrorist attacks of November 13, but the timing couldn’t have been more poetic. The set: A dreamy, grey-gauzy reconstruction of a 1960s Paris Metro station and its surrounds. The pre-show short film: Lagerfeld’s Once and Forever, staring Kristen Stewart and Geraldine Chaplin. The main event: moody cat-eyed models emerging from underground stations clad in suited tweed, slick patent, lace patch-worked hose, tousled overcoats, and layers upon layers of pearls (naturally). It was a bittersweet ballad we’ve heard sung before, but don’t seem to tire of—never mind that Paris has never needed an embrace more. It was Karl at his best, creating for the home he will forever be inspired by.

And once again, love conquers all.