This maverick chef excites the Russian enclave of Sheepshead Bay with a fresh take on Asian-French fusion

by Meredith Napolitano Sterner photos by alex barreto

In the predominantly Russian neighborhood of Sheepshead Bay, one doesn’t have to search high and low for a cup of borscht or a Ukranian dumpling. Nor a dance club, for that matter. Though it’s seen economic ups and downs over the decades, the waterfront area, previously a home to a number of fishing fleets and named after a once-frequently but now rarely-caught fish in the bay’s waters, is now known to boast a South Beach-meets-South Brooklyn-meets-Soviet-style nightlife destination where locals come to dance, drink, and eat fusion fare.

Situated on Emmons Avenue is LaVue, established in 2014, a restaurant, bar, lounge, and host of weddings, parties, and Bar and Bat Mitzvahs, with a summertime rooftop bar that simply gets packed. Decked out in magenta, it’s hard to miss.

“There are a lot of places like this,” said Yuriy Vasko, LaVue’s executive chef and resident of the neighborhood, who also previously ran the kitchen at Orange Grill, a nearby restaurant and venue. “We have to have drinking and dancing here, of course. It’s a must. People love it,” adding that a magician often comes in and approaches the tables. It’s not exactly Manhattan out here, and customers don’t seem to want it to be. Glossy purple interiors, a dance floor, and nightly music are as important as good food.

“Russians are stubborn and know what they want,” Vasko believes, but thinks it’s good. “Stubbornness keeps you moving and keeps you staying on top.”

The balancing act for the chef, then, is not only providing a sensory experience for guests through sound and visuals, but through stellar food as well, and his culinary prowess is proven on the plate. A devotee of variety, options, and contrast, he’s designed the Asian-French fusion menu to be enjoyed in a succession of dishes.

Vasko grew up in Odessa and moved to the U.S. with his family while he was a teenager. After working as a waiter, he went to culinary school. Upon graduating from ICE (Institute of Culinary Education), he cooked upscale Indian fare at Tamarind in the Flatiron district. At the call of his friends, he was tapped to helm the Japanese-French fusion kitchen at Orange Grill, before the same team opened LaVue. For a time he ran both kitchens, but now focuses on the latter.

Hand & Stone SPREAD

Seafood—both raw and cooked—is a focus of the menu and at the heart of Vasko’s devotion to freshness. “I grew up on the sea,” he said, referring to the port city of Odessa where “everyone is a seaman.” In his youth, he worked for a shipping company, catching fish and bringing them to the market, and also helped his mother in the kitchen.

“Freshness is a must. I don’t even have a freezer here, except a small chest freezer. Freshness speaks for itself. You don’t need to work as much.” With Vasko’s reliance on both that and seasoned techniques, his plates speak their own language. For example, ginger, a common crossover ingredient in Asian-French fare, makes an appearance often.

Standouts include the ultra-tender yakitori short ribs, braised slow and low, skewered, and doused with a teriyaki glaze. Fresh, plump scallops are gently seared and nestled over leek puree and garnished with shiitakes. And the popular creamy burrata appetizer, with tomato and a tangy orange glaze, is great for sharing. The tapas de poulpe (a salad with octopus and potato), duck spring rolls, and salmon-tuna crudo are other small plate highlights.

Main dishes of thick, white fish—like black cod marinated in miso and sea bass in citrus sauce—are specialties, as well as an “Encore Ocean,” a shrimp, scallop, and lobster combination in a ginger beurre blanc sauce, and from the land, a half rack of lamb and sous vide steak.

Vasko’s menu offers plenty of options while remaining uncluttered. Plating is artistic and his affinity for microgreens and garnishes like daikon ornaments the main dishes.

“Russians also like fatty fish,” he says, “and potatoes are a must.” On Vasko’s menu, you’ll find them both, but not in the way you expected.

La Vue Restaurant & Lounge
3202 Emmons Avenue / 718.513.6004 / lavueny.com