How a bi-level restaurant/lounge became a thrumming focal point for after-hours aficionados from four nearby hoods

by Brendan Fitzgibbons

In Clarendon Parish, Jamaica, is Milk River, a body of water so revered for its healing mineral properties and other rejuvenating powers that it attracts scores of visitors from around the world.

Tucked away on an industrial block on Atlantic Ave in Prospect Heights is an identically named multilevel restaurant/club and lounge, and for its general manager Marlon Rice, both the natural landmark and Brooklyn neighborhood hot spot are producing similarly sanguine results.

“Our place is where you can come, find friendly people, and really recharge yourself,” Rice said.

Located in a former parking garage, Milk River opened in August of 2013 and is divided into two floors: a chic downstairs restaurant that seats more than 150, and a dynamic upstairs club/lounge that accommodates 300. Both floors feature a full service bar as well as live music/event areas.

“There really isn’t a comparable space in the city,” Rice pointed out. “Obviously, there are great clubs and amazing lounges, but not a combination of both like we have.”

The interior design is a sleek blend of modern and classy fixtures like neon floor lighting, dangling circular lanterns, flat screen TVs, and portraits of music artists.

“It’s a beautiful space; the owner, La-Niece Lyew, carefully chose the décor, which is plush, elegant, and extremely functional,” he said.

In addition to being the owner, Lyew (former Mercer Kitchen and Umi Nom alum) is also the executive chef at Milk River, and oversees an Asian/Jamaican-inspired menu that’s authentically curated—down to the pineapple cubes perched on top of crowd-pleasing jerk wings.

The fusion of Asian and Jamaican fare may seem a peculiar pairing, but Rice explained that the two cultures are intrinsically intertwined on the tropical island. “Jamaica is heavily influenced by Chinese cuisine, since there were many Chinese immigrants who fled to the island as early as the 19th Century,” he said.

The influence of Chef Lye’s cultural background (her mother was Jamaican and father was Chinese Jamaican) is represented on every menu item, from the Jerk Lamb Chops with Apple Frisee Slaw, Milk Wings in Crispy Sweet Chili Sauce, Curry Prawns with Lobster Curry and Jasmine Rice, to the perennial crowd favorite Chicken and Waffles.

According to the general manager, live music events are paramount to the identity of Milk River. “We want to be Brooklyn’s version of BB King’s and the Blue Note,” he said. “So when the hottest bands come to town, they know to stop here.”

The restaurant features live music Tuesdays and Thursdays, a DJ on Wednesday nights, and a Friday-Sunday house band. The upstairs club is home to rising stars in the local jazz, blues, R&B, and reggae scene, such as Jah 9 and the Dub Treatment Band and Ameena Caesar.

Although technically residing in Prospect Heights, the restaurant/ lounge is on the cusp of Crown Heights, Clinton Hill and Bed Stuy, making it a hub of a rapidly evolving area. “The clientele of Milk River really reflects the changing dynamics of our community.” Rice said. “On the weekends, we tend to attract a younger crowd, but during the week, it’s professionals who want to hear good music in a relaxed setting,” adding that staying relevant means being open to the dramatic cultural and demographic changes in the area, “We want to cater to the community at large, and as our neighborhood shifts, we want to be a part of that change.”

Milk River
960 Atlantic Ave. / 718.636.8600 / milkriverbrooklyn.com