hylan boulevard’s nino’s has marked 20 years by keeping a keen eye on italian classics

By Jessica Jones-Gorman • Photos by Amessé Photography

When Agim Djencic came to the United States 20 years ago from his native Montenegro, he took a job as a dishwasher at Nino’s, a new restaurant on Hylan Boulevard that specialized in authentic northern Italian cuisine.

“I was 17-years-old,” Djencic recalled. “I started as a dishwasher and then worked my way up to busboy, then waiter.”

There was a lot of hard work and sacrifice, and long hours away from his family were rough, but ten years in, the aspiring restaurateur purchased the neighborhood eatery and made it his own.

“We made some small changes to the menu, but really wanted to stick with dishes our loyal customers loved, because that’s what Nino’s was all about,” Djencic said.

A branch of the original Nino’s (which opened in Carroll Gardens, Brooklyn, in 1968), the Dongan Hills bistro, which opened in 1994, specialized in traditional Italian fare. While many other restaurants failed in that same North Shore location, Nino’s and its trademark green awning stood the test of time. Now under Djencic’s direction, the restaurant has a fresh look (it was renovated and expanded in 2010), but the location’s focus on fine Italian dining at affordable prices remains the same.

“Our chef, Bernardo Rosario, has been with us for 20 years,” Djencic said. “He creates a variety of specials every day, cooking only with ingredients he picks himself. During the warmer months, he even cultivates a garden right outside of the restaurant where he plants tomatoes, basil, parsley, zucchini, and peppers, which are then incorporated into meals.”

Rosario’s menu is heavy on fish. Some of his most popular dishes include a Curried Sea Bass, Red Snapper with Mussels in a red tomato sauce, and Gamberoni Scampi with jumbo shrimp, white wine, and garlic, served over saffron risotto.

Meat entrees, of course, are also available: Rack of lamb is served in a peppercorn sauce, a 14-ounce filet mignon features a port wine reduction (then smothered with Portobello mushrooms), and the restaurant’s Veal Scallopine is layered with slices of prosciutto, eggplant, and mozzarella.

Pastas range from Orecchiette with sweet Italian sausage and broccoli rabe to homemade gnocchi served with fresh tomatoes, basil, and melted fresh mozzarella. A plate of traditional veal meatballs is also a standout, with its chunky tomato sauce and side of ricotta.

Nino’s offers other Italian favorites, of course: Eggplant, chicken, veal and shrimp parmesan are menu staples. Appetizers like calamari, frutti di mare, and mozzarella en carrozza are also testament to the restaurant’s Old Country roots.

“We also offer Cornish hen, Chicken Scarpiello, and a grilled tuna with onions, black olives, and a balsamic vinegar glaze,” Djencic said. “There’s more than ten different pastas, a wonderful Osso Bucco, and lots of different chicken, meats and veals. Specials rotate nightly based on whatever ingredients the chef handpicks each day.”

Nino’s 2010 renovation added another party room to the space. There’s outside dining, too, along with a patio that seats 50, and three separate rooms guarantee privacy for every guest event.

“We host weddings, showers…all kinds of private parties,” Djencic said. “It really is a beautiful space to host an event.” But the restaurant’s main focus is its dinner crowd, which has been so loyal for so many years. The owner even celebrated the restaurant’s 20th anniversary in October by offering 20 percent off of every bill.

“We wanted to give back to the community and to the people who support us and who have made us who we are,” he said. “Our regulars are extremely important to us because they’re like our family.”

Nino’s Restaurant
1110 Hylan Blvd.
718.448.3838
ninosrestaurant.com
Cuisine: Northern Italian
Hours: Monday-Thursday
12 p.m. – 3 p.m. & 4 p.m. – 10 p.m.
Friday 12 p.m. – 3 p.m. & 4 p.m. – 11 p.m.
Saturday 12 p.m. – 11 p.m.
Sunday 1 p.m. – 9 p.m.
Price: Appetizers $9 – $12
Entrees $18 – $30
All major credit cards accepted
Service: Friendly, professional
Bar: Full bar with a focus on Italian wine
Parking: Lot
Private Parties: Yes