INTRO STORY1

TABLE 87’S HEAD PIZZAIOLO, ON THE HISTORY AND SECRETS OF THE PERFECT PIE

BY MARCO MUNIVE

Though a matter of some debate, it’s pretty much agreed that the first pizzeria in the United States was founded here in the city by Gennaro Lombardi in 1905, and marked a number of important departures from typical Italian (more specifically Florentine) pies. The first was that the traditional wood-fired ovens and mozzarella di bufala were swapped out for coal powered alternatives and for di latte (made from cow’s milk and not water buffalo milk). Made by Lombardi’s employee Antonio Totonno Pero, it sold for 5¢ per pie, but even at that price some had difficulty according it. So, Lombardi established himself as a double legend when he began selling pizza by the slice (wrapped in paper and tied with a string)—a coal-fired tradition we proudly continue today at Table 87, in part by being the only business in the borough selling coal-fired pizza by the slice.

In my line of work, little things take on massive importance. Consider the tomatoes we use for the pizza sauce. The San Marzano plum tomato is considered by a great many kitchen pros worldwide— and certainly this one—as the most pizza-perfect. Compared to the traditional Roma, San Marzanos are thinner (slightly more diminutive all around, actually), but with _ esh that is thicker, with fewer seeds, a more easily removed skin, and a taste that is sweeter and less acidic.

Growing in the dark volcanic soil on the short plains surrounding Mount Vesuvius, they are grown and approved under the strict guidelines of the Denominazione d’ Origine Protetta, which among other things guarantees that the produce was supplied by local farmers and artisans using traditional methods. And yes, they’re comparatively more expensive, but I simply wouldn’t consider using anything else.

 swimming with sharks

Though Lori Greiner spent her young years on the Near North Side of Chicago—where deep-dish pizza might be a personal favorite but is at conceptual odds with our ultra-thin (and of course far superior) interpretation here in Brooklyn—she knows a good thing when she sees it.

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As host of QVC’s Clever & Unique Creations by Lori Greiner and all-around inventor and entrepreneur, she has been instrumental in the launch of more than 400 products, and holds more than 120 U.S. and international patents. Most recently she has been a cast member of the ABC reality TV show Shark Tank. Now in its seventh season, the Mark Burnett-produced series is based on the international show Dragon’s Den, and has a current overall viewership of just over 9 million.

After Table 87 owner Tom Cucco and I had the opportunity to pitch our coal-fired frozen pizza concept to the adjudicating panel on the Shark Tank episode that aired on October 16 of last year, we were thrilled when Greiner committed $250,000 for an 18.5% equity stake in this specialty mail-order component of the business. The result is that whether through our site or on Amazon, you can now get authentic coal-fi red pizza straight from Brooklyn to your door.

A TOSS UP!
In both our restaurants, hand-tossing dough is not just a way to present some great and inexpensive dinner theater, but an absolutely critical method of preparation. The reasons are threefold: first, it’s a way of extending the dough without the risk of tearing it through hand-kneading; second, tossing retains moisture far better than a press or dough sheeter would; and third, it helps keep the crust a uniform shape and thickness.

The last consideration is particularly critical when you consider that our pies spend little more than a minute or two at 900°F in our signature oven— if one part of the dough is twice as thick as the other, well, it just wouldn’t be one I’d be happy serving.

Table 87 473 3rd Avenue / 718.965.8400
87 Atlantic Ave / 718.797.9300 / table87.com