Chef David Hernandez may have become a chef by accident, but his riffs on traditional Italian fare are pure precision
by Susan Lunny Keag photos by alex barreto
Even though it was almost 30 years ago when David Hernandez moved to New York from Mexico, he clearly remembers one thing: his first taste of Italian food.
“It was amazing. I was like, ‘Wow!’ ” Hernandez fondly recalled. “But then, who doesn’t like Italian food?”
He enjoyed everything from the chicken parmigiana to stuffed shells, but thought most things he tasted could be improved with a little bit of a twist.
“A lot of what I tried needed a little spice, some pepper…a little more flavor. As I started getting familiar with Italian food, I kept imagining how I could add my own twist to it,” he said.
Three decades later, Hernandez is indeed adding his own twist to all his dishes as executive chef at Michael’s Martinis and Meatballs, named after owner Michael Dellamonica. One such innovation is the filet mignon medallions, served wrapped in prosciutto over creamy polenta with a green peppercorn and sherry wine sauce.
“Most filet mignon is served with ashed potatoes or roasted potatoes. I wanted to do something different,” said Hernandez, who instead added polenta and a tasty sauce. “I love polenta, especially if it’s creamy. And the green peppercorn changed the whole flavor.”
One of the pasta dishes at the Dongan Hills eatery is the pappardelle with filet mignon tips, served with mushrooms and caramelized onions in stroganoff sauce.
“We always get compliments on that. Customers love the flavor,” said the chef, adding that, given the number of Italian eateries on the Island, the staff strives to come up with creative new dishes, from appetizers to entrees.
Appetizers include the Sinatra scallops (bacon-wrapped scallops with Jack Daniels glaze), fried alfredo balls, salmon bites, and eggplant ricotta bites. And of course, who could forget the meatballs? Favorites on the meatball menu include the best-selling veal pork and beef varieties served with vodka sauce, as well as veal and ricotta meatballs served with garlic Parmesan sauce. There is also a vegetarian meatball, served with pesto.
While Hernandez loves coming up with new dishes, he admits the process is truly a team effort.
Even though it was almost 30 years ago when David Hernandez moved to New York from Mexico, he clearly remembers one thing: his first taste of Italian food.
“We all sit down—Michael [Dellamonica], the kitchen staff, manager, and come up with ideas,” Hernandez said, noting that it helps that he has been cooking since he was a teenager, working in kitchens and delicatessens and then pizzerias before starting in the larger restaurant business. His resume includes stints at Paco’s Authentic Mexican Bistro and Tequila Bar in Dongan Hills, Z-One in Bulls Head and Z-Two in Charleston, and the former Bistro in New Dorp.
He honed his craft observing and working with other chefs. “I actually became a chef by accident,” Hernandez offered with a smile. “I started doing it and I just loved it. I’ve worked with amazing people and consider myself lucky for that. I feel thankful to all the chefs who took their time with me, helping me learn the right way.”
The chef is also grateful for time spent with his current restaurant’s namesake, Dellamonica.
“Michael isn’t like my boss, he’s like family. When you work for people like him, it’s not work,” he said.
In his free time, Hernandez likes to spend time at home with his family, which includes his children, who are 19 and 17, and his wife of 20 years, Wendy, who also enjoys cooking.
“She cooks a lot of Mexican food,” Hernandez said, adding that she also likes to learn new Italian dishes regularly to add to her repertoire. “I’ll come home and she’ll say, ‘Try this. Tell me what you think.’ We are a family that just craves flavor.”
Michael’s Martinis and Meatballs
1816 Hylan Boulevard / 347.695.8160
michaelsmartinisandmeatballs.com