THIS BEACH-FREE ISLAND IS ONE OF THE SMALLEST IN THE CARIBBEAN (AND EVEN HAS THE SHORTEST COMMERCIAL RUNWAY ON THE PLANET), OFFERING RESPITE SEEKERS AND THRILL CHASERS ALIKE A SPECTACULAR, UNSPOILED CANVAS FOR HIKING, DIVING, AND SUN-FUELED SPLENDOR

BY ASHLEY MARTENS

Known as the “unspoiled queen,” Saba is one of the smallest islands in the Caribbean, measuring approximately five square miles. There are no sprawling beaches or cruise-ship crowds here; Saba’s appeal lies in its dramatic topography, protected clear waters teeming with marine life, and storybook villages painted in red roofs and lush tropical flora. A special municipality of the Netherlands, Saba is the highest point in the Kingdom of the Netherlands and also home to the shortest commercial runway in the world. This 400-meter runway includes cliffsides plunging straight down into the ocean, making landings on this dormant volcano quite the nail-biter.

Although this Dutch Caribbean island does not have any beaches like its more well-known neighbors, it is home to world class diving, with more than 30 permanently moored dive sites and options for all skill levels. The food is excellent, the locals are friendly and welcoming, and despite its modest size, Saba offers an impressive slate of outdoor adventures, from hiking up volcanic peaks to rainforest walks. There are five distinct eco systems: coastal cliffs, tropical cloud forest, tropical rainforest, dry tropical desert, and the Saba Bank, home to the island’s rich marine ecosystem.

KNOW BEFORE YOU GO

The island is located roughly 28 miles off the coast of St. Maarten, so many travelers fly into St. Maarten and hop on a smaller plane to travel the 12–14 minutes to Saba. You can also take a 90-minute ferry ride, but a word of warning: the journey can get rather bumpy, so if you’re prone to seasickness, it might behoove you to opt for the flight.

In Saba, there are four main villages: The Bottom (the capital), Windward Side, Zion’s Hill also known as Hell’s Gate – and St. John’s. All four villages are connected by one main thoroughfare, conveniently named The Road. An engineering marvel, this road was originally dug out by a local with nothing but a shovel. Today, it resembles the winding routes you would find along the breathtaking coastlines of Southern California, the Amalfi Coast, or Saint-Tropez so buckle up! Remember, Saba is located outside of the United States, so pack your passport and any other proper identification you will need to clear customs.

ATTRACTIONS

THE SABA HERITAGE CENTER

Visitors staying on the Windward Side are within easy walking distance of the Saba Heritage Center, a thoughtful introduction to the island’s history and traditions. The center plays an active role in preserving and promoting Saba’s cultural heritage through a collection of artifacts and rotating public exhibitions. Beyond its galleries, the center hosts weekly youth programs, including camping trips, archaeological digs, tree identification lessons, photography workshops, skeleton reconstructions, and an exhibition exploring the historical use of indigo. sabaheritagecenter.org

MT.SCENERY

Adventurers: consider summiting Mt. Scenery, the highest point on Saba at 2,854 feet above sea level. Mt. Scenery is known for its challenging trails, but it’s a rewarding hike with exceptional views. On clear days, hikers are treated to sweeping vistas of the island and the sur rounding Caribbean Sea. For a shorter outing, Mas Cahones delivers equally impressive views overlooking the village below. On cloudless days, it’s even possible to spot neighboring islands such as St. Eustatius and St. Kitts.

Those interested in hiking with a local guide can book an outing with Crocodile James, a seventh-generation Saban and descendant of real pirates. A fan favorite among visitors, he leads hikers through tropical rainforest and cloud forest terrain while sharing fascinating stories from his globe-trot ting ventures.

SABA MARINE PARK

Saba is known for its incredible diving and snorkeling in the Saba Marine Park, so grab a snorkel or wetsuit and jump right in. Be on the lookout for lionfish, sea turtles, and sharks, including nurse sharks and tiger sharks. If you are looking for a reputable boating company to work with, consider Sea Saba Dive Center. After a day on the water, head back to the dock and reward yourself with a cold beer at Deep Dive Brewing Co., also owned by the dive shop.

WHERE TO STAY

THE SCENERY HOTEL

The forthcoming Scenery Hotel is poised to redefine barefoot boutique luxury on the island when it debuts later this year. Designed to harmonize with the island’s dramatic terrain, the hotel will blend unpretentious elegance with Saba’s raw natural beauty, featuring thoughtfully designed guestrooms and suites that open onto sweeping terraces and breezy outdoor spaces. Expect serene, earth-toned interiors, natural materials, and expansive sightlines that keep the landscape front and center, along with tranquil communal areas ideal for unhurried breakfasts, sunset cocktails, and slow evenings. sceneryhotelsaba.com

THE COTTAGE CLUB

Nestled in the verdant tropical vegetation of the island, The Cottage Club consists of ten cottages built in the Saban tradition: white-painted houses with red roofs and dark green doors and window shutters. Each cottage arrives equipped with a full kitchen, sitting area, separate bedroom, and modern bath room. Open your shutters to enjoy the fresh ocean breeze from the Caribbean Sea, or soak up the sights from your porch, as each cottage boasts its own private sea-facing balcony with expansive views of Mount Scenery. On a clear day, you can also peep nearby St. Barths and St. Maarten in the distance. cottage-club.com

JULIANA’S HOTEL

This charming boutique, conveniently connected to the famed Tropics Café, is perched on a hill in the heart of Windward Side with sweeping vistas over the lush garden landscape and Caribbean Sea. The hotel offers a range of island-inspired accommodations, including ocean or garden-view rooms, themed suites (including the nautical-themed Captains’ Suites, once part of the iconic Captain’s Quarters Hotel), and private standalone cottages with fully equipped kitchens and living rooms, plus key-specific goodies like a six-person al fresco Jacuzzi, private gazebo hovering over the gardens, and a rock-enclosed outdoor bathroom. julianashotelsaba.com

WHERE TO DINE & DRINK

THE SABA SNACK GOURMET

Located in the island’s capital, The Bottom, The Saba Snack Gourmet is a super-casual eatery and local watering hole. It’s a perfect spot for a chill night out with family or friends, or a post hike refuel after a day on the trails, with spectacular sunset views of Saba’s volcanic slopes on its outdoor dining patio. Menu highlights include shrimp ceviche topped with cilantro, fall-off-the-bone barbecue ribs, and a generous T-bone steak with your choice of house mush room, red wine, or barbecue sauce. @sabasnack

ISLAND FLAVOR

Also located in The Bottom, Island Flavor epitomizes the laid-back island lifestyle. The kitchen leans garden-fresh and Caribbean-forward with a focus on local seafood, all dressed with herbs and vegetables hand-picked from its organic farm. We recommend the fish tacos or juicy fish burger, and don’t miss the eatery’s signature blended fruit juices, particularly the famous lemon chiller with fresh mint. The outdoor patio is a primo spot to kick back with a piña colada and people-watch amidst the blooming Caribbean panorama.

TROPICS CAFÉ

Located on the Windward Side, Tropics Café is one of the best spots on the island. Start with a glass of red sangria, then order up an array of appetizers such as the beef carpaccio, coco nut shrimp, and mango tuna tartar. Be sure to ask about the daily specials, and if available, try the seared ahi tuna steak. The café is also known for its Saban lobster. End the night on a sweet note with the chocolate mousse, meringue lemon tart, and the molten chocolate macaroon. If you are dining at the café on a Wednesday night, pull up a seat for their weekly showing of Saba in the Clouds, a documentary about the island filmed entirely on location. sabatropics.com