From baba ghanoush and meaty grilled “steaks” to low-carb brownies, eggplant is a culinary chameleon that deserves a starring role on your summer table

BY CHEF DAVID BURKE

If I were to pick the most underrated vegetable, it would be eggplant, at least in American cooking (except for Italian-American). First domesticated in India more than 2,000 years ago to become a staple of Indian (then Chinese) cuisine, it’s one of the most versatile and nutritious of vegetables – though, it isn’t technically a vegetable at all. Because it contains seeds, eggplant is a fruit – specifically a berry.

Regardless of its classification, eggplant is a textural chameleon: firm when grilled, creamy when roasted, silky when stewed, crispy when fried. It’s also a flavor chameleon because, whatever its texture, the porous flesh soaks up the flavors of oils, seasonings, and sauces. It’s rich in fiber, vitamins, and antioxidants, but low in calories. Plus, it’s healthy for your wallet – eggplant is cheap.

Eggplant made its way west via the Silk Road to Persia in the 6th and 7th centuries. From there, it spread to the Arab world, where it was met with some suspicion as a member of the (sometimes deadly) nightshade family; consequently, it was thought to be toxic. That notion was quickly dispelled, and, by the 9th century, eggplant had turned up in North Africa and Spain where the Moors introduced it to European cuisine. By the Renaissance, it was being embraced by Italian and French cooks, rapidly becoming a mainstay of Mediterranean cuisine.

Referring to eggplant as “it” is misleading. Grown worldwide, there are hundreds of varieties, from the tiny, round, yellow Thai iteration to the oblong, dark purple American “globes.” In addition to the American version, the varieties most often seen in this country are: Italian (smaller, tender, sweeter, and creamier than globes), Japanese (6–10 inches long, thin-skinned, delicate, and soft, good for grilling or sautéing), Chinese (8–12 inches long, mild, tender, and less bitter, often used in stir-fries). So why is it called “eggplant” when none of these varieties resembles an egg? Well, when first introduced to England, eggplant was in the guise of a small white oval resembling a chicken or goose egg. Interestingly, eggplant is only known with that moniker in the United States. The rest of the world leans toward the French aubergine, which comes from the Arabic word al-badhinjan.

The best-known eggplant dishes are ratatouille, eggplant parmesan, and baba ghanoush, but given its versatility, you can do so much more. Sub it for potatoes for chips or fries, shave ribbons for salads, mousse it for canapes, switch out the beef for eggplant “meatballs,” or stuff it with lamb and rice. Eggplant also makes a dandy roasted “baked potato” rubbed with olive oil and salt, or even low-carb brownies. Bottom line: experiment and have fun with this delicious culinary chameleon.

Red Horse by David Burke — 26 Ridge Road, Rumson / 732.576.3400 — 27 Mine Brk Road, Bernardsville / 908.766.0002 — redhorsebydb.com / chefdavidburke.com

GRILLED EGGPLANT STEAKS

Ingredients: 2 large eggplants, cut into 1.5-inch thick “steaks”; 6 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil; 1 tsp kosher salt; 1/2 tsp black pepper; 1 tsp smoked paprika; 1 ball fresh burrata; 8 oz cooked lobster meat, chopped; 2 ripe peaches, sliced; 1 cup mixed greens or microgreens; 1/2 cup corn kernels, fresh or grilled; 1 small cucumber, thinly sliced; 1 radish, shaved; 2 tbsp fresh lemon juice; 1 tbsp honey; 1 tsp Dijon mustard.

Instructions: Preheat grill to medium-high. Brush eggplant steaks with half the olive oil and season with salt, pepper, and smoked paprika. Grill eggplant for 4–5 minutes per side until charred and tender.
In a small bowl, whisk lemon juice, honey, remaining olive oil, Dijon, and a pinch of sea salt until emulsified. In another larger bowl, toss peaches, lobster, greens, corn, cucumber, and radish with half the dressing.
Place grilled eggplant steaks on platter. Top with burrata, and spoon lobster-peach salad around it. Pour the remaining dressing over the dish.

Tips: Eggplant Steaks — For a meatier texture, salt the slices for 20 minutes, rinse, pat dry, then grill. It firms them up beautifully. Plating — Keep burrata at room temperature for 20 minutes so it becomes perfectly creamy when torn.