Far from the celebrity dilettantes who simply slap their names on labels, Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen did considerable groundwork for their The Row brand, and the proof is a Resort line unique in its approach to luxury
by Tiffany Press
On May 20th, at 17 East 71st street, an elite group of shoppers and fans piled into a beautiful brownstone to celebrate the opening of The Row’s NYC flagship store. The elusive Olsen twins, Mary-Kate and Ashley, had called on designer Jacques Grange to create a retail space that gave the customer a feeling of residential living—a brownstone-esque expanse classic in its crisp, refined city sophistication. Like the brand itself, the store is an outpost of luxurious minimalism. Matching the sensibilities of the cerebral and pared-down fashion one would find at Celine or Hermès, The Row has authored a unique niche.
So how did teenage moguls known for mass-market trinkets and Full House sit-com fame become leaders in highbrow, status fashion? Encouragingly, the road to legitimacy was not a short one. The Row officially launched in 2006, with its first runway presentation unveiled in 2010, a rare instance of allowing a brand to mature into its identity before staging a show. Prior to the launch, Ashley Olsen interned with Zac Posen, in a sincere and early attempt at establishing bone fides. Today, at only 30 years old, the twins have managed to create a label rooted in anything but their celebrity personalities. The former child stars have earned two CFDA Awards for Womenswear and the admiration of a great many members of the fashion industry. Since its launch, their line has broadened to include not just ready-to-wear, but also eyewear, handbags, and footwear, and the sister founders have earned Womenswear Designers of The Year designations from The Council of Fashion Designers of America in both 2012 and 2015, and in 2014 were awarded the title of CFDA Accessory Designers of the Year, not least because of their support for high-end fashion manufacturing in the U.S. Brand styles are currently available in 164 stores in no fewer than 37 countries.
A good deal of this praise is attributable to The Row managing to coin its own style of luxury. Not the in-your face, high-octane variety, but one that’s soft, simple…supple. The Row is designed from a discipline that believes luxury is noticeable and palpable on its own without the bells and whistles. Turning the Versace or Balmain business model on its head and utilizing no broad-spectrum celebrity endorsements or needless flash, it emphasizes uncluttered lines and gorgeous materials, including buttery leathers and floor sweeping cashmere—and who can forget its now iconic $35,000 alligator backpack?
For the Row’s Fall 2016 show, the Olsens continued to embrace those key aesthetics. A rich, desert-color palette predominates, with shades of ash, toffee, and alabaster. Maxi wool coats are on hand as well, with cuts that flow like water, and with more than a healthy supply of broad, crisp tailoring. Conjuring style-memories of Lauren Hutton and Charlotte Rampling, The Row’s mood is consistently serene and smart.
Dressing in the brand is also easy, which was the intention from the first. Wearers won’t find suggestions for “styling” the pieces, for example; they are bold, simple, and require little else but attitude. Instead, the twins have tapped into the need to maximize minimalism, and we are eagerly on board.
The Row
609 Greenwich Street, Manhattan / 646.358.3888
17 E 71st Street, Manhattan / 212.755.2017 / therow.com
