DENMARK’S CAPITAL IS BRIMMING WITH COOL, BLENDING SLEEK SCANDINAVIAN STYLE, ECO-MINDED INNOVATION, AND A LAID-BACK, BIKE-POWERED LIFESTYLE INTO ONE EFFORTLESSLY HIP CITY AND SUMMER IS THE BEST TIME TO VISIT

BY AMBER GIBSON

After spending just a few days in Copenhagen, it’s easy to believe that this is the happiest city in the world, as ranked by the Happy City Index based on more than 80 measurable indicators of happiness across categories like governance, environment, economy, and health. Summer is an especially joyful time of year, with long sunny days, a bounty of fresh produce, and the whole city buzzing with life. Cycling through Copenhagen is the best way to appreciate the city’s captivating mix of architecture, from grand Renaissance, Baroque, and Neoclassical palaces and churches to the humble colorful homes and canals of Nyhavn and industrial grit of the Meatpacking District, which is now a nightlife hotspot. Plus, it’s the best way to work up an appetite for Danish rye bread and pastries: cardamom buns, tebirkes, and spandauer flaky laminated pastries filled with marzipan or custard.

KNOW BEFORE YOU GO

Scandinavian Airlines (SAS) is the flag carrier for Denmark, Norway, and Sweden, with direct flights to Copenhagen from New York. The eight-hour flight is comfortable with friendly, efficient service and a wide selection of Scandinavian spirits, beer, and snacks along with hot meals served from a trolley.

Most Danes speak English very well, so it’s easy to communicate and navigate the city without speaking Danish. Although Denmark is a member of the European Union, the country opted out of adopting the euro and instead uses the Danish krone. Credit card and mobile payments are widely accepted, but it’s always helpful to have some local currency on hand. Tipping is not expected, and service charges are included in restaurant bills.

Purchase an all-inclusive Copenhagen Card before you land, which covers all transportation in Greater Copenhagen, along with entrance to more than 80 attractions, including the Louisiana Museum and Tivoli Gardens (introduced below). Download the app and select a card that’s good for one to five days. Taxis are quite expensive in Copenhagen and Uber was previously banned, but returned this year in partnership with Copenhagen taxi company Drivr, with identical pricing as taxis.

ATTRACTION

TIVOLI GARDENS

Amusement parks are not typically cultural treasures, but Tivoli is an icon, the second oldest amusement park in the world, opened in 1843. Carefully preserved historic architecture and lush gardens in full bloom accompany the famous rides, including Rutschebanen, the oldest wooden roller coast in operation, and The Flying Trunk, themed on Hans Christian Andersen’s fairy tales. A day spent here is sure to inspire your imagination and imbue your heart with childlike wonder. The main summer season runs through September, but the park is also open all October for Halloween and from November 14 through January 4 for Christmas. Vesterbrogade 3, 1630 København, tivoli.dk

ISLANDS BRYGGE HARBOUR BATH

Harbor baths are an essential part of summer in Copenhagen. These free floating public swimming pools are located in a harbor or on a fjord with lifeguards on duty June through August. Islands Brygge is the most popular, located in the city center and designed by Danish architect Bjarke Ingels. There are five pools, including two for kids, and three separate diving towers shaped like a ship’s prow. Sunbathe, read a book, or picnic on the surrounding lawns after taking a dip. Islands Brygge 14, 2300 København S

WHERE TO STAY

25HOURS HOTEL INDRE BY

Located across several former university buildings, this hip hotel in the city center has 243 rooms, an outdoor sauna, love library with spicy literature, and vinyl record room. A whimsical “Tree of Knowledge” book sculpture greets guests at check-in and there’s a Wes Anderson aesthetic throughout. Rooms by Martin Brudnizki are themed on passion and knowledge, with scribbled notes on blackboard walls and paint-splattered hallways. Schindelhauer bikes are available for rent, along with a complimentary minibar and canvas messenger bags to use during your stay. Pilestræde 65, 1112 København, 25hours-hotels.com/ copenhagen/indre-by

PARK LANE COPENHAGEN

This newly renovated boutique hotel was formerly a 1920s cinema, blending classic Danish architecture with contemporary touches by designer Camilla van den Tempel. Wood, leather, marble, and burnished brass finishes create an ambiance of understated modern luxury. The residential location is just across the street from Øregaard Museum and Øregaard Park in a well-heeled suburb north of Copenhagen’s city center. Fresh flowers in every guest room, a pillow menu, and turndown service chocolate from a local chocolatier are just a few thoughtful details. Strandvejen 203, 2900 Hellerup, parklanecph.com

HOTEL SP34

This B Corp-certified 118-room hotel spans three townhouses in Copenhagen’s lively Latin Quarter. Curved wooden headboards inspired by Danish easy chairs are the best design touch (and great back support when working from bed) in otherwise sparsely designed guest rooms that take Scandinavian minimalism seriously. Common spaces have more personality, with ample seating, skylights, and boldly colored abstract art. Complimentary wine hour and nightcaps are offered every evening for hotel guests, and fitness kits are available as well. Sankt Peders Stræde 34, 1453 København, brochner-hotels.com/ourlocations/hotel-sp34

DAY TRIPS AND TOURS

LOUISIANA MUSEUM OF MODERN ART

An easy 40-minute train ride north of Copenhagen, this world-class waterfront art museum is a convenient day trip, and just a 12-minute stroll from Humlebæk Station. Begin in the outdoor sculpture park where art and nature intertwine, with works by Joan Miró, Alexander Calder, and Henry Moore on display along with idyllic views of Sweden from across the sound. Originally founded in 1958 as a home for Danish modern art, the museum has grown to one of the most respected contemporary art museums in the world, including works by Yayoi Kusama and Pablo Picasso. Exhibitions rotate frequently and the museum is open until 10 p.m. Tuesday through Friday. Gl Strandvej 13, 3050 Humlebæk, louisiana.dk

DANISH RIVIERA

Summer is a precious and fleeting memory, and Danes head to North Zealand’s string of seaside towns, just an hour north of Copenhagen, to soak up the sun, frolic on warm sandy beaches, swim in pristine sparkling sapphire waters, taste fresh local fish, and enjoy relaxing walks by the sea. From the colorful bohemian beach huts of Tisvildeleje to the busy fishing harbor at Gilleleje, each village has its own unique charm. There are lively festivals and markets each weekend, and refreshing local beer and ice cream for the whole family to cool off after the kids conquer Havtyren, a nature-inspired playground in Liseleje. Tisvildeleje, Liseleje, Hundested, Lynæs, Gilleleje, Rågeleje

DINE AND DRINK

RESTAURANT JORDNÆR

This three-star Michelin restaurant run by husband-and-wife team Eric and Tina Vildgaard is located just outside the city in an unassuming three-star hotel. The humble exterior belies the transportive meal that awaits, beginning with a grand champagne cart welcome in a dining room that feels like a Disney princess cottage. There’s no meat on the menu, rather elegant expressions of seafood and local produce. Vilgaard layers flavors with impressive complexity and subtle restraint in every bite, allowing the purity of ingredients to shine. From a hearty bite of lobster takoyaki to a delicate silver skewer of raw Norwegian scallops, dinner is a thoughtful study in contrasts that leaves you craving more. Wine pairings introduce guests to smaller growers, and there’s a robust selection of wines by the glass and bottle. Gentoftegade 29, 2820 Gentofte, restaurantjordnaer.dk

RESTAURANT UDTRYK

Udtryk translates to “expression” in English, and chef Edward Lee’s new restaurant is a deeply personal expression of his lifelong culinary journey. Lee was born in Hong Kong, grew up in Australia, and worked throughout Europe. He eschews labels like AsianNordic fusion in favor of cooking from the heart with no boundaries. His most memorable and delicious dishes have a distinct Asian influence, including turbot with Shaoxing Chinese rice wine beurre blanc, quail with vegan XO sauce, a pillowy miso caramel soufflé, and silky oolong custard with fresh melon pearls and lychee granita. Teglgårdstræde 8A, 1452 København, restaurantudtryk.dk

TEXTURE

This intimate restaurant has just six tables and a small but mighty kitchen serving classically French cuisine at the highest level, with confidence and verve. Expect foie gras, lobster, and caviar to make multiple appearances throughout the night, along with rich buttery sauces to be sopped up with a generous loaf of pull-apart duck fact brioche. Copenhagen Goat Milk’s goat cheese sherbet with olive oil and honey tuile is a delightful intermezzo and cheese course hybrid bridging the gap between savory and sweet courses. Sølvgade 86, 1307 København, texturerestaurant.com