FOR THIS PROUD JERSEY BOY, SUMMER’S GOLDEN EARS OF SWEET CORN AND SUN-DRENCHED PLUMP TOMATOES ARE THE CULINARY ESSENCE OF THE SEASON
BY CHEF DAVID BURKE
In New Jersey, corn and tomatoes are not simply crops, they’re a cultural rite. That said, both are important to the agricultural sector of the Garden State’s economy with some 10,000 acres devoted to their growth. In fact, Jersey’s production of each ranks among the top ten in the nation due to especially favorable soil and climate conditions.
Together, corn and tomatoes embody what’s magical about a Jersey summer: bounty, simplicity, and bold flavor. There are myriad ways to combine the two naturally complementary ingredients to make seasonal deliciousness, ranging from something as simple as a roasted corn, chopped tomato, onion, and fresh basil salad tossed with olive oil and white balsamic vinegar, to the only mildly more challenging skillet chicken cutlets (alternatively pork or veal chops) with corn, tomato, and basil. Here, dry white wine and sour cream lend creaminess to the chicken cooked in garlic-seasoned olive oil.
While, the corn-tomato combo plays nicely with virtually any protein, I like to showcase them individually during their peak seasons, mid-June until October’s first frost for corn and mid-July through early September for tomatoes.
Corn fritters are a personal favorite, made from fried corn kernel-laden batter, as they pair beautifully with any number of foods, like fried green tomatoes, a Southern summer classic. With a dipping sauce or two, such as spicy aioli, honey mustard, or sweet chili, they are a perfect party pass-around. Topped with shrimp and Louie sauce or oysters (raw with mignonette or fried with tartar sauce), they are an intriguing appetizer. Corn fritters can also be jazzed up with shrimp or oysters in the batter.
Unadulterated, corn fritters work well as a side for grilled meat and fish – on their own or drizzled with honey or maple syrup, which can also make them dessert.
Maybe the most unusual thing I do with corn is to make corn caramel sauce (recipe above), which can be used for almost any caramel sauce application, as well as with fritters and corn cakes. I also find it adds a sweet and savory flavor note to summer salad dressings. It dresses up seasonal fruits, peaches in particular.
On the tomato front, there are few things more appealing to the palate than a freshly cut slice of tomato sprinkled with a little salt, which intensifies the sweetness of the fruit. (Yes, tomatoes are a fruit, not a vegetable; their seeds technically make them a berry.)
As such, sliced tomatoes, layered with mayo and cheese, make a wonderful savory pie. Chopped, they are the foundation of a memorable jam, which I particularly like with grilled swordfish, or any grilled fish or steak, really.
Another way to preserve tomatoes’ taste-of-summer is by pickling cherry tomatoes with garlic, peppercorns, and herbs or confitting them in olive oil, garlic, and herbs. You can also jar them in olive oil and vinegar with mozzarella and olives. These will all store in the refrigerator for a couple of months or so.
The same is true of a beloved corn-tomato combo: corn relish, a super versatile, sweet, and tangy condiment that extends the culinary soul of a New Jersey summer through the fall.
CANDIED CORN CARAMEL SAUCE
Ingredients:
1 1/2 cups corn, cut from the cob; break slices of corn kernels into sections
1 cup sugar
1 cup apple cider
1/2 cup orange juice
3 tbsp Grand Marnier
3 tbsp butter, softened Caramel corn for garnish
Directions:
Combine corn, sugar, and cider in a heavy saucepan and cook over medium-high heat. Stir occasionally until corn sections have broken up and sugar has caramelized. Remove from heat and whisk in the Grand Marnier and butter.
Red Horse by David Burke
26 Ridge Road, Rumson / 732.576.3400 27 Mine Brk Road,
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