ITALY’S CITY OF CANALS IS AN INTOXICATING WONDERSCAPE OF MAGIC AND MYSTERY

BY AMANDA McCOY

Throughout history, countless poets and wordsmiths have attempted to capture the enigmatic magic of Italy’s floating city through prose. “It is the city of mirrors, the city of mirages,” penned American novelist Erica Jong, while the famed 19th century philosopher Friedrich Nietzsche opined, “When I seek another word for music, I never find any other word than Venice.” The Russian writer Alexander Herzen spoke of its dizzying precarity, a booming metropolis strung together on 126 islands at the edge of the Adriatic Sea, noting, “To build a city where it is impossible to build a city is madness in itself, but to build there one of the most elegant and grandest of cities is the madness of genius.” Europe’s most prosperous city in the 14th century, Venice offers some of the world’s most stunning examples of Gothic grandeur, its meandering canals flanked by ornate palaces, stone mansions, historic palazzos, and towering cathedrals. Today, tourism is the city’s primary economy, a prodigious shift from its medieval heyday as the world’s most powerful trading hub, with 20 million visitors flocking to Vento’s capital annually to experience La Serenissima, the “most serene” city in Europe. Its magnetism is only boosted by transience; every year, Venice sinks one to two millimeters into the sea (estimates place it fully submerged as early as 2100).

KNOW BEFORE YOU GO

Venice is a small city, spanning just over two square miles with a permanent resident population under 50,000. On average, the same number of tourists fill the narrow cobbled streets (and canals) every single day, and that number doubles during peak travel season. To alleviate the effects of over-tourism, the city recently passed a law restricting group sizes to 25 people max. Of the millions of wander lusters snapping selfies on the Rialto Bridge each year, only half spend the night on the island (not only is Venice a popular day-trip destination, it’s also a major port for cruise ships), so to fully experience the sights and splendor of the island city without fighting your way through a crowd, we recommend booking an overnight stay. Every corner of the city is dripping in charm, so if your itinerary does only allot a few hours to explore, be sure to take some time to deviate from the primary crowd-magnet attractions.

Venice is a labyrinth of twisting side streets and gondola-filled canals romantic and scenic, yes, but be prepared for many roads to dead end at a canal with no bridge. Getting lost and letting the city drive is part of the experience, but it’s a smart move to download an off line map to ensure you can navigate back to your hotel at night.

ATTRACTIONS

 PIAZZA SAN MARCO

Basilica San Marco and the Clocktower in Piazza San Marco, morning view

Venice’s principal square is far from a kept secret, but it’s worth meandering through the masses to catch a glimpse of St Mark’s Basilica and the Doge’s Palace. The Basilica, known as the church of gold, was built in the 9th century and is an exquisite blend of Byzantine, Gothic, and Romanesque styles, marked by rolling domes and gold mosaics. Doge’s Palace, Venice’s seat of power for centuries, is an excellent example of the city’s wealth and influence, filled with gilded ceilings, frescoed walls, towering sculptures, and priceless works of art. The square itself is idyllic, lined with several bistros and cafés to enjoy a light bite amid the waterfront views.

BURANO

Tucked along the northern end of the lagoon, the island of Burano is worth the half-hour vaporetto (water bus) ride from Venice’s center. Considered the lace capital of Italy, the island has been churning out delicate Venetian lace since the 1500s. In addition to browsing locally stitched doilies, tablecloths, gowns, and more at a range of boutiques, visitors can learn more about the rare and precious trade at the Museo del Merletto (Lace Museum). Burano is perhaps most famous for the sea of candy-colored cottages that line its canals, each painted in bright neon shades of pink, yellow, blue, green, and orange. museomerletto.visitmuve.it

SUNSET CRUISE

What better way to drink in the dreamy views (along with a glass of Prosecco) of the floating city than via boat, and this evening cruise by luxury travel group Venice to See glides past many of the city’s most notable sights as you feast on a multi-course dinner over candle light. The experience begins with a picnic of chef-curated chicchetti (snacks), including Venetian sardines and chunks of creamed codfish, before patrons are served a formal meal of risotto alla pes catora and sea bass roulade stuffed with prawns while the sun dips behind the islands of San Giorgio, San Servolo, and Murano in the distance. $180 per adult, venicetosee.com

WHERE TO STAY

THE ST. REGIS

Rising from the edge of the Grand Canal with the largest water frontage in the city, this five-star property debuted in 2019 after an ambitious, two-year renovation of the former Grand Hotel Britannia, circa 1895. Before changing hands, the landmark hotel hosted an impressive roster of notable guests during its tenure, including Sigmund Freud, Winston Churchill, and Claude Monet, who completed his famed oil painting, the San Giorgio Maggiore at Dusk, from his hotel room. (Film buffs, you’ll recognize the property from the 1999 cult thriller, The Talented Mr. Ripley.) The revamped property pays homage to its artful past, filled with a sweeping collection of contemporary works, from oil paintings and garden sculptures to a massive Venetian glass chandelier by Chinese artist Ai Weiwei. The 130 guestrooms and 39 suites are filled with mid-century accents and modern luxuries, and many offer private balconies that overlook the flowing dreamscape of Venice’s chief waterway. marriott.com/ en-us/hotels/vcexr-the-st-regis-venice

AMAN

The ultra-swanky hospitality name plate launched its first Italian property in 2013, set in a converted 16th century mansion in San Polo with just 24 rooms (the owners, count and countless Gilberto and Bianca Arrivabene, still live upstairs). Tapped to lead the restoration, Belgian architect and designer Jean-Michel Gathy did a remarkable job blending Aman’s signature minimal ism with Venetian grandeur, complementing the palazzo’s hand-painted frescoes and Rubelli silk wall coverings with contemporary furniture and a neutral palette. There are ten accommodation types, including a trio of swanky suites and one sprawling apartment, with room-specific details like original, centuries-old artworks, Murano chandeliers, chinoiserie accents, fireplaces, and terraces overlooking the Grand Canal. (The 1,100-square-foot Alcova Tiepolo Suite features an incredible ceiling fresco by famed 18th century painter Giovanni Battista Tiepolo.) There’s also a signature Italian fine-dining restaurant and lavish cocktail bar, plus a private chef’s table. aman.com/hotels/aman-venice

WHERE TO DINE

TRATTORIA AL GATTO NERO

Among the parade of Burano’s rainbow hued homes lies the bright blue facade of this classic trattoria, a homey, family run eatery founded in 1965 that specializes in classic Venetian lagoon fare. Chef/owner Ruggero Bovo is lauded for his dedication to simplicity and seasonality, sourcing every piece of seafood from local fishermen. Menu standouts include handmade tagliolini with spider crab, pappardelle scampi with house made smoked ricotta, baked sea bass, and cuttlefish served Venetian style. Be sure to save room for a slice of Torta del Giorno (house cake) for dessert, which pairs beautifully with a glass of Passito dessert wine. gattonero.com

RISTORANTE GLAM

One of two double-Michelin-starred restaurants in the greater Venice area (the other, Antica Osteria Cera in nearby Lughetto, is also worth a visit), this courtyard restaurant in the Palazzo Venart Luxury Hotel offers one of the most exquisite settings in the city, nestled between an orangery and canal side garden. Under the shade of mature magnolia trees, guests are treated to a contemporary spread by chefs Enrico Bartolini and Donato Ascani. There are two tasting menus to choose from: Art, Gardens and Lagoon, dedicated to local Venetian culinary traditions, and The Classics of Glam, highlighting signatures from chef Ascani’s career. The res taurant only harbors space for 30 diners, and tables book up far in advance. ldchotelsitaly.com

RISTORANTE QUADRI

With a dining room directly overlooking Piazza San Marco, this restored 19th century restaurant offers one of the best views in town. Double-height ceilings, ornate wallpaper, and Murano chandeliers set the stage for chef Max Alajmo’s imaginative interpretations of Italian classics. Diners can choose from a menu of a la carte options, or opt for one of two tasting menus of either five or eight courses. Past plates include fried soft shell crab and artichokes topped with tarragon cream, roasted mackerel with smoked potato puree and oysters, and burrata ravioli with cuttlefish, clams, and shrimp. alajmo.it