The designs of Project Runway veteran Viktor Luna are all feminine force, tempered by moments of indulgent repose

by Sarah dE Brun

Now is the Era of Woman if ever there was one…if the gender is defined as a boundary-breaker, an activist for equality, and the glue that holds this entire operation we call humankind together. If the tough girl who doesn’t take shit from anybody is having a moment, then so is—in his way of course—Viktor Luna. To design for such strength, you must possess strength.

Taking into account the determination needed to conquer dreams, the drive it takes to back up collection samples, and the ability to hold fear at bay when leaping into reality television (Luna made it all the way to the finals in Project Runway Season 9, mind you, finishing as second runner-up), it’s fitting that he would attract a certain type of customer.

“Most of my clients are women who love to express themselves. My garments transform them and make them feel luxurious and edgy,” said the Guadalajara, Jalisco native, now resident New Yorker. In his eye, luxurious and edgy seem to oppose one another, yet he designs for women from all walks of life. The luxury spoken of refers to the elegant sheer gowns which have become a specialty. Edgy best describes his leather jackets, which often provoke a “Whoa!” upon first glance, meticulous as they are in their armored essence.

Founded in 2008, the Viktor Luna brand was built at least initially from the fearlessness that comes with anonymity.

“My early designs were more innovative and experimental. It was crucial for me to go through that process to learn from mistakes or gain new ideas,” he explained.

The designer remains mindful while designing, staying conscious of a woman’s need for functional pieces, but hasn’t sacrificed the theatrics of creativity—pulling inspiration from punk-rock music and cultural history. “I love Sumerian culture and decidedly non-scientifically-approved legends like Atlantis,” he said. “I find other civilizations with their own culture and attires absolutely fascinating. I recreate these cultures in a way that we can identify and recognize, with that fantasy twist,” which partially explains this season’s fantastical leather jackets inspired by warriors and post-apocalyptic survival togs.

“Leather inspires me just as much as re-inventing the design of a classic heritage biker jacket. I often look for a new way or silhouette in making a leather jacket or coat,” Luna explained, adding that it is a long process from conception to the moment it hits the runway. “The most important aspect is my love of making jackets. I think that is what people see, and that’s what’s captivating.”

The designer’s AW2015 Collection could easily serve as wardrobe to any sci-fi female protagonist and/or cast member of Mad Max: Fury Road. Trench coats with defense-mechanism like spiked arms, protective fur overlays, motos inundated with gold studs, and leather leg braces (you heard right) combine for almost-threatening future garb.

For 2016, a lineup of collaborations with other artists will further lift the brand. (“I have a women’s shoe collaboration with designer Zack Lo and a video campaign with Sophy Holland,” Luna said.) Along with these partnerships comes the debut of a collection at Fashionxt in Portland this October, and many other exciting happenings that Luna was—for the moment—too bound to secrecy to detail.

There’s that strength of will coming in to play once again.

Leather Visor & Pants
Viktor Luna
Bralette Victoria’s Secret
Boots Aldo
Photography by Mark Oberlin
Styling Dion “Bleu” Drake
Makeup by Eric Allen using Physician’s Formula
Hair by René Cortez using Sachajuan & extensions by London
Model Amy Charsley, Two Management
viktorluna.com