A South Williamsburg pub combines ’70s punk décor and upscale diner fare to form a true neighborhood original

by Brendan Fitzgibbons

The screaming metal guitar riffs, torn leather jackets, tattered furniture, loose metallic piercings, and chain accessories typically associated with the punk era don’t seem like the most ideal backdrop for delectable comfort food and a cordial atmosphere.

But Randolph Brooklyn in South Williamsburg is proving that notion wrong…on a daily basis. Opened in November of 2013, the bar is part of the corporate brand the Randolph Group, which includes two other Manhattan locations, the cocktail bar and café Randolph on Broome, and nearby brewpub Randolph Beer, both located in the Lolita/Little Italy area. Hari Nathan Kalyan is a lawyer, jazz drummer and the cofounder and partner of the Randolph brand, along with Dave Plate.

Serving as Randolph Brooklyn’s primary designer and general contractor, Plate chose the bar’s punk aesthetic more out of raw instinct than a desire to make an artistic statement. “It wasn’t aligning with or advancing any particular trend,” Kalyan said. “It was just what we felt like doing and that’s kind of how we approach everything.”

Décor at the 2,500-square-foot space is anything but understated. The-white brick walls are lined with splashes of graffiti, the entrance a series of square glass openings outlined in black and red vinyl booths, while vintage TVs line the room’s edges, with every part of the lengthy hall covered in some form of metallic embellishment.

Despite the vintage ’70s rebel design, Kaylan described the vibe as comfortable, but focused. “The bar is laid-back, approachable, and heavy on soul,” he said. “We take what we do pretty seriously, but don’t want it to come across that way.”

The relaxed, elegant, and friendly feel is reflected on the menu, too, as Randolph Brooklyn gives standard diner menu the gentrified Brooklyn treatment, with elevated bar staples like Fried Chicken Thighs with Kale Slaw, Corn Off the Cob with Chili Lime Sauce and Avocado, and Mac n’ Cheese, as well as well cocktails and craft beers.

The owners weren’t committed to this type of fare right out of the gate, and decided to let the diner menu form organically, “We didn’t really know exactly what we wanted to be in South Williamsburg, so we kind of opened the doors and let the neighborhood tell us what it was into,” Kalyan said.

The co-owner singled out the Burger with Cheese and Grain and Kale Salad as two of the most popular food items at the bar. For spirits, he mentioned the El Pepino Fresco (tequila blended with elderflower, fresh cucumber, lime and creole bitters) and the Randolph Paloma (a Holland pepperinfused tequila mixed with lime, grapefruit, strawberry, citrus and agave nectar) as a few of the standout selections.

According to the co-founder, one serious claims to fame is the bar bringing pickleback shots to the area (wherein a shot of whiskey is chased by a shot of pickle brine). “It was us and the Rusty Knot,” Kaylan said. “It started out in at Bushwick Country Club, but we brought it into the city and made it popular, and you can put me on record for that.”

Given the bar’s detached, even-tempered vibe, Randolph has naturally coalesced into the social fabric of the hip Brooklyn neighborhood. “South Williamsburg was an innate fit for us, as the neighborhood feels very much like the way Nolita, Little Italy— where our other stores are—felt back in mid 2000s when we started out,” Kalyan said.

Randolph Brooklyn
104 South 4th Street / 718.599.0412 / randolphnyc.com