SEVENTY-FIVE YEARS AGO, A FRENCH ARTIST AND INTREPID TREASURE SEEKER FOUNDED THIS EFFORTLESSLY GLAMOROUS, TROPICAL CHIC RESORT, AND TODAY IT CONTINUES TO SEDUCE CELEBRITIES AND LUXURY TRAVELERS WITH STUNNING VIEWS, PALATIAL VILLAS, AND ST. BARTH’S LARGEST WINE COLLECTION

BY AMANDA McCOY

It’s a calm Caribbean morning. As you lie back in a red pin-striped lounge chair on a private beach, the towering palm above casts a vacillating shadow over the sugary white sand. The sun-dappled turquoise waters of Saint-Jean Bay are ever-still, only occasionally ruffled from a passing sailboat or tri-deck superyacht. If the moment could be imprinted on a postcard, it would read “greetings from paradise,” where daily conundrums are nothing more than deciding between char-grilled octopus or crispy salmon sushi, Frangelico or frosé.

Welcome to Eden Rock, an art de vivre retreat atop a rocky promontory in St. Barths. The property’s roots date back to 1950, when French artist Rémy de Haenen purchased the dramatic ridge to build a hotel in a then-untouched slice of coast along the northeastern Caribbean sea. It wasn’t long before the world’s glitterati began flocking to the dreamy hilltop hideaway, from Greta Garbo to Howard Hughes, helping put the Lesser Antilles isle on the map with well-heeled wander lusters. More than seven decades later, Eden Rock remains one of the most iconic overnight escapes along the Caribbean coast, lauded for its blend of seaside sophistication and elevated adventure (in addition to his work as a Surrealist painter and sculptor, De Haenen was also known to embark on treasure hunts and intrepid island expeditions).

In 1995, David and Jane Matthews acquired Eden Rock, teaming up with German hospitality juggernaut Oetker Collection in 2014 to manage the property. Business was booming, and the resort’s grounds were a daily runway of celebrities, socialites, and deep-pocketed sun seekers. Then, when the property was closed for routine annual maintenance in 2017, the category five Hurricane Irma crashed onto St. Barths’ shores, causing significant flooding and structural damage to the property. The owners took the opportunity to employ a massive renovation and rebuilding initiative, keeping reservation books empty for a full two years before celebrating Eden Rock’s grand reopening in November 2019.

Nicole Spread

“The remaking of Eden Rock St Barths has been an incredible adventure and a wonderfully rewarding experience on so many levels,” noted General Manager Fabrice Moizan. “It really was a team effort and we are immensely grateful to our brilliant group of collaborators and col leagues who worked with us endlessly to reach this milestone.”

The property debuted the brand-new Rémy Bar (an ode to Eden Rock’s founder), a refreshed Sand Bar both overseen by the internationally acclaimed super-chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten plus the revamped Eden Spa. All existing rooms, suites, and villas underwent an extensive transformation, and the project also debuted three new accommodations for a grand total of 37 keys.

Sun-drenched and spacious, the rooms, suites, and villas are spread over three locations: tucked into lush tropical foliage, dotted along the sandy shore, or chiseled directly into the rock. No two accommodations are alike; local artworks, colorful textiles, and artisan furniture yield dimensionality and flair. Grab a novel from your private library and cozy up on the outdoor terrace of the Plantation Room, or take an afternoon dip in your very own plunge pool in the yacht-inspired Captain Room. The Legacy De Haenen Suite boasts a wraparound terrace and open bathroom with a walk-in shower built directly into the rock, while the Diamond Waterlily Suite features a massive infinity pool and hot tub overlooking the turquoise bay.

There are also two mega-villas on the property, and both include a dedicated 24/7 butler and chef to satiate every craving and fancy. The tri-suited Nina, perched directly on the beach, features a private art gallery, swimming and spa pools, and oversized windows and doors that open directly to Saint-Jean’s sandy splendor. The flagship (and aptly named) Rockstar runs a palatial 16,000 square feet and can be likened to a $2 million superyacht on land. Tucked behind a 10-foot privacy wall and just steps from the sea, the six-bedroom castle in the sand feels like a resort-within-a-resort, boasting a sprawling outdoor sundeck with a 65-foot pool, several loungers, hammocks, a Jacuzzi, and cushy sacco chairs.

Sand Bar, the signature Jean-Georges Vongerichten-helmed eatery, serves lavish spreads all day, with a changing menu for breakfast, lunch, afternoon snacks, and dinner. Take your meals in the bright, botani cal-studded dining room or the breezy terrace overlooking the bay (or opt to dine in-robe in your room or private patio). Kickstart the day with a turmeric tonic before diving into almond pancakes with bananas and whipped cream, avocado toast topped with a poached egg and smoked salmon, or overnight oatmeal with almonds, dried grapes, and local honey.

Lunch spans a parade of salads, sushi, gourmet sandwiches, and select larger dishes (the creamy truffle pasta is a can’t-miss), while dinner turns up the luxe with caviar starters followed by a menu inspired by Vongerichten’s ABC and ABCV restaurants. Think seared foie gras with mango, ginger, and puffed brioche, local mahi-mahi dusted with pumpkin seeds, and caramelized beef tenderloin served with carrots and mustard miso sauce. Liquid pairings are taken seriously; the wine and champagne list is the largest on the island, including nearly 1,000 labels from vineyards around the globe.

Rooms begin around $1,600 per night.

Eden Rock

St Barths etkercollection.com/hotels/eden-rock-st-barths