ROM BUBBLING MUD POTS TO CRAGGY MOUNTAINTOPS, ERUPTING GEYSERS TO GLACIER EXPANSES THAT STRETCH AS FAR AS THE EYE CAN SEE, ICELAND IS A BEGUILING DREAMLAND OF THE FAR ARCTIC

BY TIA KIM.

Set high in the north Atlantic, only a handful of miles from the Arctic Circle, an enchanting island nation seduces travelers into a sphere of contradictions. Home to both sweeping glaciers and angry volcanoes, Iceland is known as the Land of Fire and Ice. Visitors are served frozen and flaming geographical treats, from bubbling geothermal hot springs to towering glacier-carved fjords, plus black sand beaches, thundering waterfalls, spitting geysers, deep canyons, and flowing lava fields. The Nordic nation, home to less than 400,000 people, is otherworldly, a stew of contrasts that dances between eternal sunshine and the darkest of nights as the seasons pass. In the winter, it’s one of the best places on earth to catch mother nature whip up the Northern Lights, plus wildlife like arctic foxes and mammoth orcas.

KNOW BEFORE YOU GO

Visiting in the winter provides many advantages: crowds wane, ice caves solidify, and conditions are ideal for spotting the Aurora Borealis. Winter weather can be unpredictable, with sudden strong winds and massive snowstorms, but average daily temperatures in February hover around 30 degrees F, thus it’s not as blistering as the country’s name might suggest. Plus, the tapestry of black-and-white as snow falls over the black sands and lava fields is truly a stunning sight. Be sure to pack accordingly: thermal underlayers and waterproof boots are essential, but don’t forget your bathing suit, as the geothermal hot springs like the famed Blue Lagoon are a surefire can’t miss. Because most of the country (except for parts of Grímsey island) is south of the Arctic Circle, you won’t experience total blackness in the winter, but days are short with about four to five hours of sunlight.

Keflavík is the main international airport, open year-round and set around 30 miles southwest of Reykjavík, Iceland’s capital and largest city. Icelandair is the hub, though other major carriers like Delta and American operate flights as well. Depending on your itinerary, it’s a good idea to pack adventure gear as well, like headlamps, ice cleats, handwarmers, an emergency blanket, and a proper camera to capture the lights.

ATTRACTIONS

GRÍMSEY The Arctic Circle slices through this volcanic island, set 25 miles north of mainland Iceland and accessible yearround via the Sæfari ferry from Dalvík (the journey is available three days a week and takes about three hours). Here, fiercely pink sunsets paint the sky before the black of night takes over, and the small isle’s remote location provides one of the best landscapes in the country for Aurora hunting. Locals are famously friendly, and seabirds outnumber the population by around 50,000 to one. While the orange-billed puffins depart the island for winter, they start returning at the end of February to plant their nests.

JÖKULSÁRLÓN GLACIER LAGOON The country’s most famous glacier lagoon has been featured in several Hollywood blockbusters, including Die Another Day and Lara Croft: Tomb Raider. Located in the southeast of the country near Vatnajökull, Europe’s largest glacier, the lagoon is an ever-evolving landscape of vivid blue floating icebergs as they break off and drift toward the ocean. On sunny days, you might catch a sleepy seal basking in the light atop a bed of ice. Stop by nearby Diamond Beach to peep washed up bergs atop the midnight black sand, resembling diamonds sparkling in the sun.

GEOTHERMAL HOT SPRINGS There are more than 600 hot spring pools in the country, many with views of rugged lava fields and steaming geothermal vents. The Blue Lagoon, the largest man-made mineral bath on the planet, is the most famous, but there are several additional springs to soak your tired or weather-worn bones. The Secret Lagoon, one of the country’s oldest, offers a more rustic and less commercialized experience, while the Mývatn Nature Baths in North Iceland serves stellar views of the volcanic landscapes surrounding Lake Mývatn.

WHERE TO STAY

THE RETREAT AT BLUE LAGOON Tucked into a surreal lava field, this prize-toting resort lets you soak in your own private section of the world-famous Blue Lagoon, with its milky-blue waters saturated with silica and minerals. Each suite features floor-to-ceiling windows framing epic views of volcanic landscapes, plus private terraces perfect for sipping tea while wrapped in a fluffy bathrobe. The Michelin-starred Moss Restaurant takes epicureans on a sevencourse journey through Iceland’s geographic landscapes, from the mountains to the rivers and sea. Think Arctic char crudo served atop a sorrel and cucumber sauce followed by a beet salad with blue cheese “snow” and Icelandic cod. The spa offers a slate of rituals, treatments, and experiences, including an immersive in-water massage where you glide atop the lagoon on a floatation mat as therapists blanket your body in mineral massage oil. Rooms begin at $1,200 per night. bluelagoon.com/accommodation/ retreat-hotel

ION ADVENTURE HOTEL Perched on a dramatic hillside less than an hour from Reykjavik, this hotel’s sleek, modern design appears to float above lava fields, offering panoramic vistas of glaciers, volcanoes, and the dancing Northern Lights. After a day of exploring nearby geysers or hiking volcanic trails, you can unwind in the steamy outdoor hot tub or sip cocktails at the Northern Lights Bar, perfectly designed for aurora spotting through floor-toceiling glass. Rooms start around $300 per night. ionadventure.ioniceland.is

HOTEL RANGÁ Set in South Iceland near the town of Hella, this countryside resort is famed for its prime location to witness the Northern Lights, offering an on-site observatory equipped with high-quality telescopes and expert guidance. The hotel provides individually themed suites, including the Africa Suite with a straw ceiling and ostrich egg chandelier, and the Asia suite with a Japanese-style floor table and Japanese artwork. Many suites also boast deep soaking tubs in the center of the living room, or for an open-air experience, grab a cocktail from the Rangá Bar and soak in one of three outdoor geothermally heated hot tubs. Rooms begin around $400 per night. hotelranga.is

DINE AND DRINK

OX RESTAURANT Tucked behind a graffitied door, this intimate 11-seat restaurant feels like a deliciously kept secret. Chef Thrainn Freyr Vigfusson’s 17-course tasting menu is served communal-style, atop kitchen fixtures inherited from his grandmother. Each dish, rich in texture and detail, is a reflection of Iceland’s vast culinary traditions: puréed meat soup, chicken liver and sugar-fermented beets, pastry stuffed with duck egg under a crown of caviar, and smoked lamb with Arctic thyme are but a few of the former standouts. ox.restaurant

OTO Featured in the 2024 Michelin Guide, this Reykjavík newcomer is shaking up the local dining scene with creative Italian-Japanese fusion fare. It’s immensely popular, so be sure to book a reservation far in advance, but it’s worth the effort. Think a creamy smoked trout spread with chives and roe to start, followed by salmon sashimi dressed with rhubarb and Icelandic wasabi, or lobster cappelletti jazzed with yuzu, ginger oil, and lemon. Flank steak is served with chestnut mushrooms, oxtail ponzu, and garlic, while hand-dived scallops are given a tangy twist with citrus soy sauce and togarashi, a sweet and smoky Japanese spice. oto.is