CARRIAGES ROLLING ALONG ORIGINAL 19TH CENTURY COBBLESTONE, PLANTATION-ERA MANSIONS SHADED BY BEDS OF WILDFLOWERS, AND SKY-HIGH STEEPLES FROM 200-YEAR-OLD CHURCHES: CHARLESTON IS AN EXQUISITE FEAST OF AMERICAN HISTORIA AND DURING THE HOLIDAYS, IT’S PURE MAGIC

BY AMANDA McCOY

First settled in 1670, Charleston is one of America’s oldest cities. Stretched along a scenic harbor in South Carolina, the vibrant enclave feels frozen in time, dotted with pastel-hued Antebellum mansions, winding cobbled streets, and pre-Revolution churches. (In fact, Charleston derived its nickname, the Holy City, from its dazzling display of historic churches.) Though steeped in Colonial and Civil War-era heritage Fort Sumter, the naval base where the first shots of the Civil War were fired, looms across the water Charleston hosts a booming dining and modern arts scene, even nabbing second place in TripAdvisor’s 2024 Travelers’ Choice Awards for best food city in the U.S. The holiday season is a particularly magical time to visit, with storefronts, homes, and churches all dressed in tinsel and bows. Peruse the famed Christmas market with a cup of homemade mulled wine before sitting down for classic Lowcountry eats after a garland-laced carriage ride through the historic district.

KNOW BEFORE YOU GO

The Charleston International Airport is a quick 20-minute drive from downtown, with plenty of daily flights, including a nonstop from Newark on United. Averaging around 230 days of sunshine each year, South Carolina’s largest city boasts a subtropical climate with mild winters. Temperatures in December hover around 60 degrees while the sun is in the sky, and only dip to the mid-40s at night. Southern hospitality is taken seriously here; locals are welcoming and helpful, and simple greetings like “good morning” go a long way. The downtown area is scenic and compact, thus the best way to explore is on foot, though there are many bike rental shops if you prefer to sightsee on wheels. Though the city is teeming with cultural landmarks and an increasingly revered culinary scene, it’s also considered an outdoor haven, with six beaches within close proximity to the center of the city, including the most popular, Folly Beach, open year-round.

ATTRACTIONS

FRENCH QUARTER

Charleston is famed for its classic Antebellum homes (grand, plantationstyle mansions erected before the Civil War), impressive churches, and original cobblestone streets, and the best place to experience all of the historic splendor is in the French Quarter. Strolling around the small enclave is a delight; you’ll saunter by numerous art galleries and museums (including the Old Slave Mart Museum, which offers a poignant glimpse into Charleston’s role in the domestic slave trade in the mid-1800s), quirky boutiques, preserved mansions, and cultural institutions, including one of the oldest playhouses in the country, Dock Street Theatre.

HOLIDAY DÉCOR AT THE CHARLESTON PLACE

Dubbed the city’s “holiday headquarters,” the Charleston Place hotel boasts one of the most extravagant festive displays in town, featuring 140 decorated trees throughout its hallways and courtyard, including the flagship 40-foot Christmas tree in the center of Market Street Circle. Décor, designed by local event maverick The Drifter, spans largerthan-life Nutcrackers, glimmering sugarplums, and a festive train bound for the North Pole along a 300-foot track. There will be special appearances by the ballerinas of the Dance Conservatory of Charleston, plus a snowfall experience every evening. charlestonplace.com

JAMES ISLAND COUNTY PARK HOLIDAY FESTIVAL OF LIGHTS

Feast on a display of more than two million twinkling lights at this beloved annual tradition. Every year, from November through December, the scenic park is transformed into a dizzying wonderscape of oversized light sculptures, enchanting pathways, and family-friendly activities like marshmallow roasting, live music, and a Santa’s Village. Be sure to go treasure hunting in the on-site gift shop with goods from local makers. ccprc.com

WHERE TO STAY

DEWBERRY HOTEL

In 2008, John Dewberry purchased an eight-story office overlooking downtown Charleston’s Marion Square with lofty ambitions to turn the former federal building into a chic, contemporary hotel. Eight years later, the Dewberry Hotel debuted as a five-star contemporary showpiece dripping in mid-century modernism. Tucked behind a limewash facade, the 155-room hotel is filled with thoughtful throwback touches: think warm wooden walls, marble floors, colorful wallpaper, and period furnishings like leather slingback chairs and plush velvet sofas. Room and suite features include canopy king beds with Irish linens, Stickley armoires in bright botanical patterns, and original local artwork. Guest bathrooms are particularly deluxe, dressed in Danby marble and finished with cast iron soaking tubs (in select rooms). There are two dining venues on site; nibble on oysters and steak frites at the cozy Living Room, or drink in stellar views at Charleston’s highest rooftop bar, Citrus Club, famed for tropic-forward cocktails and light bites like edamame hummus and warm blue crab dip. Rooms begin around $350 per night. 334 Meeting Street, thedewberrycharleston.com

WENTWORTH MANSION

Set along a primary vein in Charleston’s downtown historic district, this 19th century landmark is an exquisite example of Southern glamour. Originally built in 1886 as a private home for Francis Silas Rodgers, a wealthy cotton titan, the Historic Hotels of America entry lives on as a five-star boutique. Rodgers had lavish taste (and 24 servants), thus the mansion is unapologetically opulent, and many of the Gilded Age accents – intricate woodwork, hand-carved marble fireplaces, and Tiffany glass – remain intact. Each of the 21 guestrooms and suites is unique in size, shape, and finish; expect regal elements like pressed tin ceilings, warm parquet floors, original gas fireplaces, and sunrooms with plantation shutters. The signature restaurant, Circa 1886, offers one of the hottest reservations in town. Executive chef Marc Collins serves elevated takes on Lowcountry delicacies, from Broken Arrow antelope with Brussels sprouts and grits to duck fat roasted beef tenderloin with garlic whipped potatoes. Rooms begin around $400 per night. 149 Wentworth Street, wentworthmansion.com

DINE AND DRINK

THE ORDINARY

Touted as a “fancy seafood” house, this charming brasserie on Upper King in the French Quarter serves prized fish dishes that focus on freshness and simplicity, sans flash. The space, housed in a former bank circa 1920, features high ceilings, double-height windows, wooden bistro tables, and a white tile and marble bar where heaps of local shellfish are on display. Menu standouts span a towering seafood stack specially curated by the chef, swordfish schnitzel with sweet potatoes and bacon, and slow-baked triggerfish with pumpkin velouté and chanterelle mushroom. Fancy appetites can add caviar service by Regiis Ova, plus a bottle of Laherte Frères champagne, of course. 544 King Street, eattheordinary.com

FIG

Born in 2003 at the dawn of Charleston’s foodie renaissance, this James Beard Award winner serves seasonal Southern finery atop white linens. The menu is a love letter to Lowcountry flavors; ingredient-driven dishes include starters of burnt eggplant and house made cottage cheese and Wagyu steak tartare followed by mains of slow-baked snowy grouper and pork schnitzel with cider vinegar, chicories, and rock shrimp. The wine list is equally revered, featuring an impressive range of old and new world bottles from around the globe. 232 Meeting Street, eatatfig.com

LEWIS BARBECUE

There’s no shortage of superb barbecue spots in the Holy City, but this Texasstyle haunt by pitmaster John Lewis is widely hailed among the best in town. Housed in a casual, industrial-style building with a massive bar and outdoor patio, Lewis Barbecue specializes in cutto-order meats from the owner’s customdesigned smokers. First-timers shouldn’t skip the house-specialty beef brisket, slathered in homemade sauce and served sliced or chopped. Additional options include spare ribs, juicy turkey breast, green chile cheddar sausage, pulled pork, and hot Texas sausage. Go big with super creamy mac ‘n’ cheese and tangy coleslaw, and wash it all down with a local pale ale. 464 N Nassau Street, lewisbarbecue.com