THIS FIRST HONEY-FLAVORED SCOTCH WHISKEY CAUSED AN EARLY STIR IN PURIST CIRCLES, BUT MARKS A SPIRITED EVOLUTION FOR DEWAR’S
BY INDUSTRY STAFF
In 2009, a statutory instrument regulating the production, labeling, packaging, and advertising of Scotch whiskey was approved by the United Kingdom’s Parliament. Before that, there were laws governing Scotch’s production, to be sure (including the Scotch Whiskey Act of 1988), but never before were marketing considerations in the mix. Unpoetically dubbed the Scotch Whiskey Regulations, the law came into its first prominent application in 2013, when the Bacardi-owned Dewar’s brand announced the release of Dewar’s Highlander Honey. Concerned that the honey infused liquor (the first time that Scotch had been blended in this way) was muddying the classification waters, the Scotch Whiskey Association expressed a wish that “the labeling and promotion… could distinguish the product more clearly from Scotch whiskey,” and wanted a description “more conspicuous in labeling to help make it clear it is not.” Dewar’s somewhat slippery response was that its intent was “to arrive at a product description that adequately describes while leveraging the equity and strength of Dewar’s.” This would all be very inside baseball to most bar enthusiasts, but to seasoned drinkers of Scotland’s national elixir, it was a major conflict… and a wedge in the door that, to purists, would result in the flavored- everything meme extending to one of the most cherished manufacturing regions on the planet.
Still, it seems as though there’s truly no such thing as bad publicity, because sales of the flavored whiskey have been relatively brisk, helped in all likelihood by the hubbub.
The results? After an initial nose very much like Dewar’s White Label, our taste sequence ran from malt grain to orange, lemon, and, of course, honey, accentuated throughout by a subtle but delicious oakiness. this is a young whiskey, so there’s a bit of a bright edge to the proceedings, along with a slightly harsh aftertaste, but the takeaway is something pretty damn impressive, and perfect for a late spring afternoon on the deck—an embrace of winter’s whiskey heritage, and the sparkling promise of something new to come.
TASTE SHAPER
The Austrian fine wine glassware maker Riedel took a break from making vessels perfect for taking in the subtleties of Pinot Noir to play with what is generally considered to be the fi nest shaped vessel to take in Scotch’s aroma and flavor. Its elongated thistle shape, on a truncated stem, incorporates a small, slightly out-turned lip (which directs the spirit to the tip of the tongue, where sweetness is perceived). The result is this delicate but gorgeous Single Malt Whisky Vinum, available in sets of two for $60.
