For centuries, fishermen have used the salty, briny taste of seawater to give depth of flavor to their dishes. Lucky for us landlubbers, we don’t need a rod and a hook to get on board with this technique. This twist on the classic pesce all’acqua pazza simmers fresh fish in seawater for an unforgettable and unfussy twist on coastal eating

BY CHEF DAVID BURKE

At David Burke Tavern in Manhattan, I recently added seawater-soaked brick chicken (with summer truffle, mushroom fricassee, green beans and shallots) to the menu, which raised a few servers’ eyebrows. I suggested they replace “seawater-soaked” with “brined” in their minds and explained that, beside the alliterative value of the description, utilizing seawater for culinary purposes is a time-honored tradition. Eyebrows were lowered, and appetites raised.

You see, seawater is naturally rich in minerals such as magnesium, calcium, potassium, and iodine, which subtly enhances food’s taste and nutritional profile. It is particularly good for seafood dishes like clams, mussels, or seafood risottos, highlighting the oceanic flavors. Of course, using seawater reduces the need for additional salt, providing a more balanced seasoning and a unique umami depth.

The technique began centuries ago as a necessity for Italian fishermen who fed themselves aboard their boats by cooking some of their catch in seawater: free, plentiful, and perfectly seasoned. This very practical method of cooking produced a clean, briny, deeply coastal flavor profile that became a hallmark of Southern Italian food.

Ultimately, the practice shaped iconic dishes and evolved into a technique now being embraced by Italian chefs to recreate the mineral complexity of traditional coastal cooking, effecting a return to Italy’s oldest maritime associations.

The most famous seawater dish is pesce all’acqua pazza (literally, “fish with crazy water”). It’s traditionally made by simmering fish in seawater with tomatoes, garlic, and herbs, creating a violently bubbling broth they jokingly called “acqua pazza.” Modern versions often use fresh water plus sea salt and white wine, but the philosophy and result remain — minimal ingredients, maximum expression of the sea.

The recipe below is for classic pesce all’acqua pazza. Its flavorful simplicity can be applied to most any shellfish or combination thereof, or try with chicken, turkey breast or pork tenderloin. Note the use of “regular” water, in addition to the seawater. It dilutes the salinity of the latter, so it doesn’t overwhelm the fish (or meat). For shellfish, you can go with straight seawater, because the shells protect the meat from becoming too salt saturated.

You can buy purified seawater, or you can go the DIY route, as follows: 1L Filtered or Spring Water · 35g Sea Salt (≈ 2 tbsp + 1 tsp) · 1 piece Kombu (2-inch strip) · 1 tsp Clam Juice · 1-2 drops Lemon Juice. The salinity here mimics the ocean’s 3.5% salt, while the kombu adds a mineral mix similar to seawater’s. The clam juice adds trace umami and a natural ocean scent. And the lemon juice adds the faint acidity found in natural seawater.

Red Horse by David Burke — 26 Ridge Road, Rumson / 732.576.3400 — 27 Mine Brk Road, Bernardsville / 908.766.0002 — redhorsebydb.com / chefdavidburke.com

PESCE ALL’ACQUA PAZZA
Ingredients: 1 whole fish (1–1.5 lb) or 2–3 fillets, branzino, snapper, sea bass, or orata · 1 cup water · 1 cup purified seawater, either purchased or homemade (see above) · 1 cup cherry tomatoes, halved · 2 garlic cloves, smashed · 2 tbsp extra virgin olive oil · Fresh parsley, small handful · 2 tbsp white wine (optional but traditional) · 1 pinch chili flakes · Lemon slices.

Instructions: In a wide sauté pan, warm olive oil and add garlic, tomatoes, wine (if using), and both waters. Simmer 3–4 minutes until tomatoes soften. Lay the fish into the simmering broth. If using a whole fish, make 2–3 shallow slashes on each side. Simmer uncovered 8–10 minutes for fillets or 12–15 minutes for whole fish, spooning broth over the top as it cooks. Add parsley and chili flakes. Transfer fish to a platter and ladle the crazy water over it and garnish with lemon slices. Serve with crusty bread.

Chef’s Note: If you acqua pazza meat, reduce heat to make the water shiver, just short of actual simmering to assure tenderness.