FROM ITS STRIPED MAGENTA, PURPLE, OCEAN BLUE, AND YELLOW EXTERIOR TO THE HEALTHY FLAVORS OF ITS OWNER’S ROOT CUISINE, THIS NEW NAVY YARD THAI EATERY AIN’T AFRAID TO STAND OUT

BY MEREDITH NAPOLITANO STETTNER

Samui, a new Thai restaurant opened in August in the area adjoining the Navy Yard, might be off the beaten path from Fort Greene’s foodie pathways, but goes out of its way to be visible. That’s clear even from its edifice, brightly apparent even from the middle of Vanderbilt Avenue—a multi-color, symmetric mural painted from floor to roof in hues of striped magentas, purples, ocean blues, yellows, and oranges—completed by renowned graffiti artist Andrea von Bujdoss.

Though A. Napadul, Samui’s chef/owner, had intended to open in Williamsburg, the location at Vanderbilt and Flushing could not have worked out better.

“As soon as I walked in here [the site a former two-story medical supply warehouse], I knew I could do something to make it special—the question was how,” Napadul said in a soft tone. After taking in the fast-evolving development plans for the Navy Yard area associated with the Yard itself and nearby Brooklyn Grange and Steiner Studios TV and movie production complex along Flushing Avenue, Napadul was sold.

“I knew this could be a destination,” she said.

Petite, stylish and thoughtful, Napadul had thought of opening a restaurant for 15 years. Born in Roi Et Thailand, located in the country’s northeast region, she was first schooled in cooking from her grandmother, who owned a humble home-based restaurant open only from 4:00 to 6:00 in the afternoon. (“People would line up before then to have a meal,” she recalled.) From age seven to 12, Napadul helped in the kitchen and picked up the instinctive cues that infuse Thai cooking as much as the ingredients do.

“She would make pastes, chili, garlic, and showed me to sauté for fragrance,” said Napadul. “She would tell me to pound the chile, to smell for when something is ready, to see when to add the coconut milk. It’s all about time—when to put food in a pot, and having patience…and also, to simmer, not boil.”

At age 22, Napadul moved to New York to work in the commercial jewelry design industry, then to pursue a career in real estate. Owning a restaurant was always brewing in her mind, however, and when, at age 35, she saw the effects of an over-Americanized diet on her own health, she turned back to the healthy flavors of her foundational cuisine. Lighter ways of preparing—like flash frying and using less sugar in sauces—are evident on the menu for her new eatery, and the cocktail list is teeming with strong spices and infusions like ginger and chili.

“A lot of American Thai food is not satisfying to the taste buds,” she observed. “Crispy, savory, sour, spicy are the different flavors you must have at once.”

From the cocktails to the desserts, the menu has contemporary flair, while still feeling healthy. Noted beverages like a jalepeno margarita marries spicy and mild sweetness, while the lychee bellini is refreshing and pungent with real lychee puree. Small plates lovers find noshing options abundant in the tender chicken satay, crispy and light turmeric garlic chicken wings, and curry puffs. The crepes (such as the shrimp/coconut specialty) are filled with seafood and served with a heap of beansprouts and cucumber relish. They stay airy and crispy, thanks to a blend of rice flours. Large plates include traditional dishes like Maksuman short rib, green curries, crispy whole snapper in sweet chili sauce, plus steamed fish options and seasonal specials like soft shell crabs. Mango sticky rice and banana in coconut milk round out the dessert menu.

Just like Napadul’s interpretation of Thai cuisine, Samui’s decor is a study in contrasts, careful consideration, and vibrance. Designed by New York-based architecture and design firm StudiosGO, the space has a floating quality to it—from soft lighting and minimalist Asian lounge-inspired furniture to stand-out objects sourced from Brooklyn artisans, like geometric pendants, lanterns, and glass-blown door handles. Essential to the space is the sound design, curated by her husband Hani, a music producer. The system, which plays soothing beats without being overpowering, is immersive…transportive, an experience one feels often at Samui, which, after all, draws its inspiration from the Southeast Asian island Ko Samui, known for its beaches, spas, rainforests and coconut groves.

Samui
15 Vanderbilt Avenue / 917.909.1032
samuibrooklyn.com