Eight Brooklyn Chefs Making Waves in 2016

Suchanan Aksornnan—Baoburg
Serving modernist French/Asian cuisine in the heart of Williamsburg, this tiny restaurant (it accommodates up to 18) is helmed by the oversized mind of Executive Chef Aksornnan (nicknamed “Chef Bao Bao,”), who designed a fusion menu—a carnival of mash-ups, really.

“Born in Chiang Rai, the northernmost province of Thailand,” she explained that “I brought with me traditional Thai family recipes,” then harnessed chops gained at The French Culinary Institute in lower Manhattan to innovate upon them—to produce an experience that no lover of modern borough fare should miss.

In addition to weekend-brunch staples such as “Signature Bao” (eggs in a skillet with sausage bacon, habanero pepper, cheddar cheese, and pommes frites, served with toast) and “Sober Bao Benedict” (poached egg, pulled pork, and sautéed spinach with pine nuts, all served atop a fried Asian bun with spicy hollandaise sauce and a side of home fries), Chef Bao Bao added several new items to the list. One of the highlights is “Baoburg Burger” (pan-fried Chorizo Burger, with avocado, tomatoes, bacon, cheese, a sunny-side up egg and chipotle mayonnaise on a brioche bun, served with a side of fries and some pickles).

“This handmade patty uses both the finest minced veal and beef, then adds a variety of spices used in chorizo. So, once you bite, you notice the difference. It’s super-juicy and much sweeter than a regular meat patty, but you can feel the kicks from the spices,” Chef Bao Bao added.

Brunch guests will also have the opportunity to experience new desserts, including “Caramel Flan” (vanilla caramel custard served with Dulce de leche, shaved almonds, whipped cream, and a tortilla cinnamon stick) and the chef ’s signature “Grilled Banana Tamales” (served with sweet sticky rice and coconut milk Dulce de leche, with vanilla ice-cream). 614 Manhattan Avenue, baoburg.com —by Industry staff

Greg Baxtrom—Olmstead
In opening Olmsted in Prospect Heights, the goal of chef/owner Greg Baxtrom was to make refined food more affordable. Baxtrom, who owns the neighborhood restaurant with farmer Ian Rothman, designed a limited, focused, and ingredient-driven menu, with no dish over $24. Plates like pea falafel, dry-rubbed scallops, fish of the moment, and meats with seasonal accompaniments are rounded out by a small list of snacks like oysters and bean frites. The careful chef, who utilizes ingredients from the restaurant’s backyard garden, already comes with a following (he’s formerly of Atera) and now, more will flock to the 50 seats in his latest venture, named for Frederick Law Olmsted, the architect behind Central and Prospect Park. 659 Vanderbilt Avenue, olmstednyc.com —Meredith Napolitano Stettner

Chad Shaner—Freek’s Mill
Freek’s Mill in Gowanus conjures a time when people in the area knew where their food came from and where it was processed. In 1874, the area surrounding the creek (now canal) was an inlet full of natural oyster beds, and the creek supported the families that lived around it. With that history in mind, chef Shaner has designed a limited menu relying on seasonal produce, with an ode to sustainably cultivated (and wood-fired) oysters, soft shell crab, and a nod to duck and pork jowl, with a little agnolotti and stracciatella thrown in, all while keeping the plates small, shareable, and interesting. 285 Nevins Street, freeksmill.com —Meredith Napolitano Stettner

Marco Chirico— Marco Polo Ristorante
Some might say that Chirico has red gravy flowing through his veins. His father, Joseph, opened the Cobble Hill institution Marco Polo Ristorante in 1983; more than 30 years later, it’s still thriving, with the younger chef now holding down the kitchen. He credits his mother as mentor, recalling, “She made an amazing Sunday sauce, and cooked for us every day.”

Under Chirico’s guidance, Marco Polo’s enhanced offerings are a winning combination of classic Italian and modern classics of his own creation. “It’s important to shift with the times,” he said. “You’ve got to evolve to survive.” This evolution includes an eclectic selection of small plates during happy hour, which features items like Arancini (mini rice balls over whipped ricotta), Polpettine Di Vitello (petite veal meatballs with tomato sauce), and calamari and shrimp served in a martini glass, as well as a raw bar.

Chirico’s favorite dish to prepare is the restaurant’s signature pasta, Fettuccini Al Vino Rosso.

“I love it because we make it tableside,” he detailed. “It’s dramatic, with red wine and a Parmesan wheel at the table. We toss the house-made pasta right there, so I get to interact with customers while I cook.” A close second is the Farro e Zucchine Estive. “It’s essentially two types of fresh fettuccini, one made with farro and the other with snake zucchini. We serve it with a fresh pesto made with basil from a garden on our property upstate, near Monticello,” the chef added. “We grow a lot of our vegetables there. I also go to the Carroll Gardens Greenmarket around the corner on Sundays and grab the produce I need for the week.”

Missy Robbins—Lilia
At Williamsburg’s Lilia, chef/owner Missy Robbins has a knack for taking just a few ingredients and the confidence to make them shine. Pete Wells summed up his recent New York Times review with “…Robbins is cooking pasta again.” That, he surmised was all people needed to know. Her pappardelle, rolled delicately thin and lightly coated with bolognese, revels in its simplicity, while meats and seafood are cooked on a wood-burning grill. Praised for her disciplined avoidance of trends, she’s also blessed with the pedigree to pull it off. 567 Union Avenue, lilianewyork.com
—Meredith Napolitano Stettner

Pedro Canello—Il Sogno Secondo
The mission of Il Sogno Ristorante Italiano on Jefferson Boulevard in Staten Island is, according to chef/owner Pedro Canello, “to create something different…something that you wouldn’t usually find in the traditional Italian kitchen.” So, he applied unexpected ingredients to typical dishes, like meatballs, but prepared with Kobe beef, risotto croquettes stuffed with Gorgonzola cheese, peppercorn tuna sliced thin and served with mango and pineapple dressing, and crusted Chilean Sea Bass in a coconut sauce and zucchini flowers, stuffed with ricotta and mascarpone and drizzled with a roasted pepper sauce. Now he’s bringing that flair for the unusual to Park Slope in the form of Il Sogno Secondo. Yes, here you’ll find classics like Rigatoni Ripieno (ricotta stuffed rigatoni in a filet mignon sauce) and a lovely Linguine Con Vongole (choice of red or white clam sauce), but it’s Canello’s improvisation that soars, in dishes like Dentice alla Daniel (snapper with sautéed artichoke hearts, asparagus, cherry tomatoes, and shrimp, in a pinot grigio sauce) and Bistecca Siciliana (rib eye, with bread crumbs and sliced hot peppers in a brown brandy sauce). Not as out-of-the-box as its Island counterpart, this Brooklyn outpost nevertheless combines haute cuisine with a torcere (“twist”). 310 5th Avenue, ilsognonyc.com —Industry staff

Erik Ramirez—Llama Inn
At Llama Inn, situated on a triangular corner in Williamsburg beside the BQE, a meticulous kitchen reimagines the tastes of Peru (think ceviche and spicy roasted chicken). But here, chef Ramirez, whose parents are from Lima, both tidies up and expands such offerings, elevating and braiding elements of old and new with a dash of luxury. Ramirez, whose culinary education is rooted in classic French (he formerly cooked at Eleven Madison Park) resurrects his roots and breathes modernity into classics like beef tenderloin, whole fish with rice, as well as a curated list of small plates featuring ingredients both familiar and exotic, like burrata with purple potato, peanut, huacatay, and green garlic. 50 Withers Street, llamainnnyc.com —Meredith Napolitano Stettner

Medwin Pang—Hunger Pang
Opened last year in Kensington by Medwin Pang and his wife, Karen Do, this unassuming but noteworthy spot caters to the crowd of restaurant-goers who love to eat well, without accoutrements, in a comfort-food way, and not spend a fortune for it (all plates are under $25). Pang, of British and Chinese descent, changes the menu based on the seasons and blends flavor profiles (but without aiming for “fusion”). Bao, wings, and other small plates round out his starters, while Chinese roast chicken and grass-fed steak (sometimes with miso butter) are popular mains, along with fish and crispy taro. Pang’s creativity shines, too, in his treatment of veggies, like grilled shiitakes, bok choy, or fries with “Pangry” mayo. 1021 Church Avenue, hungerpangnyc.com —Meredith Napolitano Stettner

La Vue—Yuriy Vasko
Situated on Emmons Avenue, LaVue, which opened in 2014, is a restaurant, bar, lounge, and host of weddings, parties, and Bar and Bat Mitzvahs, with a summertime rooftop bar that gets simply packed. Decked out in magenta, it’s hard to miss, with its glossy purple interior, dance floor, and nightly music (nearly as business-critical as good food). Executive Chef Vasko, who previously ran the kitchen at nearby restaurant and venue Orange Grill, does a balancing act here—not only in providing a sensory experience through sound and visuals, but through stellar fare as well, and his prowess is proven on the plate. A devotee of variety, options, and contrast, he’s designed the Asian-French fusion menu here to be enjoyed in a succession of dishes.

Vasko’s standouts include the ultra-tender yakitori short ribs, braised slow and low, skewered, and doused with a teriyaki glaze. Fresh, plump scallops are gently seared and nestled over leek puree, then garnished with shiitakes, and the popular creamy burrata appetizer, with tomato and a tangy orange glaze, is great for sharing. The tapas de poulpe (a salad with octopus and potato), duck spring rolls, and salmon-tuna crudo are other small plate highlights.

Main dishes of thick, white fish—like black cod marinated in miso and sea bass in citrus sauce—are specialties, as well as an “Encore Ocean,” a shrimp, scallop, and lobster combination in a ginger beurre blanc sauce, and from the land, a half rack of lamb and sous vide steak.

Vasko’s menu offers plenty of options, while remaining uncluttered. Plating is artistic, and his affinity for microgreens and garnishes like daikon ornaments the main dishes. “Russians also like fatty fish,” he said, “and potatoes are a must.” On Vasko’s menu, you’ll find them both, but not in the way you expected. 3202 Emmons Avenue, lavueny.com —Meredith Napolitano Stettner