NYC PIONEERS OF SQUARE, DETROIT-STYLE PIZZA, EMILY AND MATT HYLAND BRING THEIR UNIQUE DIMENSIONS AND “FRICO” CRUST TO WILLIAMSBURG

BY TIA KIM

Emily Hyland and Chef Matt Hyland, the duo behind the beloved Clinton Hill pizza spot Emily, have unveiled in Williamsburg their second restaurant in the Pizza Loves Emily family: Emmy Squared. Its menu focuses on the City’s first and only Detroit-inspired pie–a style notable for its square shape, crispy bottom, fluffy dough, cheesy “frico” crust, and signature sauce stripes (applied after baking). The style had its genesis in 1946, when a Motor City speakeasy-turned tavern named Buddy’s pioneered not just the square design, but also the technique of loading cheese directly onto the dough, which, when melted, produces a buttery, crunchy, frico crust.

“Our first shared meal was a pizza,” the Hylands recalled. “It was thirteen years ago—pepperoni and olive—while sitting on the floor of Matt’s dorm room at school in Rhode Island. I have a distinct memory: as I was biting into my second slice that night, I looked across the pie and knew this was the man I would love for the rest of my life. We do eat other foods (sometimes), but pizza has been the special fare we have enjoyed sharing since the moment our relationship began.” A graduate of the Institute of Culinary Education and former pastry maker at Public, Matt helped launch the Breslin in Manhattan and also cooked pies at Pizza Moto in Carroll Gardens.

The Hylands’ menu, organized into “red” and “white,” is comprised of ten pies that feature Matt’s inventive topping combinations. Whites include the Angel Pie, with mozzarella, ricotta, mushrooms, and tru_ e crème, as well as the Hatchback, with mozzarella, Zia chiles, chorizo and crema. Red pies include a classic Margarita, with basil and burrata, in addition to the Emmy, with mozzarella, banana peppers, red onions, house-made ranch, and a side of tomato sauce for dipping.

There’s also an array of snacks and salads, like Crispy Cheddar Cheese Curds, or an Endless Summer salad with citrus, sunflower seeds, and Arethusa blue cheese. Sandwiches, such as the Meatball Sub, with tomato sauce and provolone on a sesame bun, and the Spicy Chicken, with crispy chicken, cornichon, radish, bok choy and “salsa pico,” round out the fare.

At the 18-seat marble bar, there’s a menu of cocktails, too, including a Negroni and Rum Punch, as well as classics like a Moscow Mule, French 75, and Whiskey Sour, all accompanying pizza-friendly beers and wines served by the glass, bottle, or “beaker.”

The walls are adorned with items collected from Emily and Matt’s childhood homes, including toy dinosaurs, a leather rhinoceros, and pieces from Emily’s parents’ art collection, adding to a homey, laid-back atmosphere.

Shortly after the opening this year, Matt began offering alternative fare for dinner on Fridays and Saturdays at his burger bar downstairs from Emmy Squared, crowned by a riff on the neighborhood-loved Emmy Burger served at the Clinton Hill restaurant. Dubbed Le Big Matt, this is an expensive ($22) but singular experience, featuring dry aged beef from Fleishers, American cheese, traditional pickles, topped with a fiery, smoky sauce. Simple but sizeable bliss.

Emmy Squared
364 Grand Street / 718.360.4535
pizzalovesemily.com