The executive chef at Maizal brings experience and family recipes to his innovative mexican kitchen

by Susan Lunny Keag • Photos by Amessé hotography

Wilmer Santos’ job as executive chef at Maizal isn’t just to prepare dishes for customers. He also sees it as a chance to expose New Yorkers to the true culinary delights of a neighboring culture.

“A lot of people have the wrong idea about Mexican food,” said Santos, who serves as executive chef at Maizal’s locations in Staten Island and Astoria, Queens. “When they hear the term, they think of tacos, tostados…tortas—and they’re really good, but not all we have to offer.”

That’s why Santos and his brother Leonel Zelaya, who is general manager of both Mexican eateries, work on the menu together regularly to change chef specials and discuss daily dishes. One such plate is the tequila and lime fried shrimp, featuring chunks of tomatillo, tomato, garlic, and fresh cilantro, sautéed with tequila, white wine, and butter, then served with rice, beans, and sweet plantains.

“It’s a really hearty dish—rich in flavor and delicious,” Santos said.

The chef added that he keeps in mind family recipes, too, as well as the tastebuds of his customers, whether he’s preparing a lump crab cake appetizer or tasty enchiladas.

“I try to combine the recipes from my mom and our family back home with the taste of the people of New York City,” he explained.

“Back home” for Santos is Honduras, where he had plans to be an engineer and study computer systems before coming to the United States in 2003. His plans changed when he spent time with his brother, who was already in the restaurant business. Zelaya opened the first Maizal location, located at 990 Bay Street, back in 2010 and another in Astoria in 2014.

Santos had learned much about cooking from his family, particularly his mom, and later studied at the French Culinary Institute before returning to help his brother at Maizal. He’s worked at various high-profile restaurants in Manhattan (including Eleven Madison Park and Aquavit) to hone his chops, noting, “I even worked for free sometimes just to get experience and learn more.” He also served as sous chef at Maizal before becoming executive chef, where, in addition to preparing meals, his role extends to inventory, training others in the kitchen, and of course, constantly working on updating and innovating house dishes.

“We don’t habitually change the menu, but we try to improve it…add things,” Santos said.

For example, the chef explained that the fish tacos are a customer favorite thanks to additions like the lime-jalapeno mayo. (“It’s homemade and gives a different taste to the fish taco.”) The dish is also served with eight ounces of fresh grouper, instead of the typical mahi-mahi or tilapia, which he said could be “flat in favor.”

Santos pointed out that having the right ingredients is just as important as having the right partnership in the restaurant business, adding that he feels fortunate to work with his brother, Leonel Zelaya.

“We understand each other,” he said. “He knows a lot about food. We work on the menu together. When we want to make a decision we sit and talk about it. He gives me some suggestions and ideas and then leaves it to me to cook.”

Things are a bit different at home, however, where Santos lives with his wife and 6-year-old son. At home, his wife is in charge of their menu, the chef smilingly confided.

“She doesn’t like to follow my suggestions,” he joked. “She does it her way.”

Maizal
990 Bay St. / 718.685.9540 / maizalrestaurant.com