Brick by Bricolage

Park Slope chef couple Lien and Edward Lin are rethinking Vietnamese fare, ingredient by ingredient

by Cathy brown • Photos by Jon Gordon

Perched at the lower reaches of 5th Avenue, not far from the Barclays Center, Chefs Edward and Lien Lin’s adventurous Vietnamese gastro pub, Bricolage, offers an exuberant riff on the Vietnamese eating experience.

A collaborative effort from the transplanted San Franciscans, who cut their culinary teeth at the Slanted Door (another venerated Vietnamese eatery founded by Chef Charles Phan in 1995), the Lins put their own and uniquely personal spin on Bricolage’s small but growing menu, combining the traditional with the whimsical.

Setting up their open kitchen in Park Slope was a no-brainer, said manager Kyle Eberle. “It’s a very child-friendly neighborhood,” he said. “Edward and Lien have a three-and-a-half year old and many of the staff have children as well. Things just fell into place. The space is beautiful, with a great outdoor area.”

Early in the evening, families do indeed dot Bricolage’s polished wood tables, which are crafted from rescued pallets. Later on, singles and couples line the tables and bar (also fashioned from refurbished wood). Funky R&B, pumped through a solid sound system, is fun, but doesn’t impede conversation.

True to its name—which means a creation from a diverse range of available items—the décor at Bricolage is salvaged chic: wide plank floors, delightfully mismatched chairs, and eclectic chandeliers. The walls are lined with books collected from local stoops.” We’re not about symmetry here,” admitted Eberle.

Yet, Bricolage’s dishes are artfully balanced, the perfect blend of sweetness and bite, with an emphasis on farm fresh ingredients like mint, watercress and house-made noodles. Appetizers range from $9 to $14, main courses $16 to $27. The menu is thoughtfully and lovingly prepared. Portions are size-suitable for sharing—and diners should at least consider mixing as many of the creative offerings as possible.

The Crispy Imperial Rolls ($11) were outstanding, delivering a nice crunch, filled with pork, shrimp, glass noodles and wood ear mushrooms. They’re paired with a delectable spicy/sweet peanut dipping sauce, plus lettuce leaves and sprigs of mint for wrapping. The Fresh Summer Rolls ($9) offered a refreshing blast of herbs, shrimp, and pork bellies. (There’s also a satisfying vegetarian version.) The Green Papaya Salad ($11) was a pretty medley of cucumbers, celery and red onions, topped with crispy shallots, and finished with a bright, citrusy kick.

Among the notable main courses is Cha Ca La Vong ($22), which puts a new age twist on a traditional Vietnamese favorite, bearing the Lins’ distinctive signature. Perfectly browned, melt-in-your mouth medallions of Atlantic cod top a mound of rice vermicelli, fresh dill, and watercress. You’re encouraged to give it a gentle toss to combine the sublime, layered flavors.

There’s a generous selection of teas and coffees (Blue Bottled French press and Vietnamese) to accompany dessert: Coconut-Tapioca Pudding with fivespiced ginger syrup and mango or an utterly genius twist on Molten Chocolate Cake. “I wanted the perfect cheese to compliment this dish and tried several,” said Chef Lien. She found it in Mycella, a mild Danish blue which lends a subtle undertone to this velvety chocolate explosion, dusted with candied almonds and sea salt. With a splash of quince sauce on the side, it’s simply off the charts.

“We’ve been open since February 10,” Chef Lien reported. “Business has been great and it really ramps up on weekends. I think we’re on to something.”