From deliriously chilly oysters to a signature Surliner cocktail to its James Beard Award-nominated design team, this Park Slope bar is all about the cool

by Derek De Koff

Oysters. The law of the land says they should be achingly cold, deliriously crisp, and, with just one toss of the head, instantly transport you to the sea. (Hey, we’ve tried it and it works.) And should you happen to be the owners of Grand Army Bar, oysters should also be readily available in Park Slope at a moment’s notice.

Brought to you by four neighborhood locals who happen to be restaurant pros, the bar is the brainchild of Mile End’s Noah Bernamoff, food photographer Daniel Krieger, Julian Brizzi of Rucola, and Prime Meats’ chief bartender Damon Boelte. Their aim is simple: to become a highly respected neighborhood bar that emphasizes the talents of each partner. According to Krieger, “The fact that Noah and Julian already owned established, high-quality restaurants in their ‘hood was the ace in the hole.”

Specializing in cocktails, a raw bar, and a small kitchen that whips up sweet seasonal dishes, this upscale eatery features a well-curated list of wines, beers, and spirits.

“If you like oysters, good music, a drink or two, and vibes,” said Krieger. “You’re bound to have a nice time.”

And who amongst us can resist a good vibe? The decor was hatched by The American Construction League, led by Matt Maddy; a team that was nominated for a James Beard Award last year. They’ve built a sleek, sumptuous space around the vintage wooden bar, and covered the walls in artwork chosen by gallerist and investor Paul Bright. It’s the perfect ambiance to get intimate with the oyster of your choice.

The four friends have known each other for years and were already admirers of each’s individual strengths. Collaborating was a no-brainer: all it took was a tipsy dinner to seal the deal.

To get right into the spirit of things, Boete recommends The Surliner, a cocktail that’s quickly become a fixture on the summertime menu. Doused with navy-strength rum, allspice dram, curaçao, orgeat, fresh lime juice, pineapple juice, and bitters, the result is more akin to alchemy than mixology, and is Damon Boete’s undisputed masterpiece. It doesn’t hurt that, upon being served, the concoction turns a stunning sea-blue.

“All our drinks are tasty,” Boete said. “It just depends on your preference. Do you want a strong drink, or something more refreshing and sweet? Ask for an Old Fashioned and I’ll make you the perfect version. Or try a few original drinks, like the City of New Orleans—rye, apple brandy, fernet branca, sweet vermouth, benedictine, and bitters.”

Boete also recommends The Brew-Namof from the dessert cocktail list; a mixture of Jamaican black rum, housemade coffee liqueur, coconut cream, and nutmeg.

“It’s the perfect way to end a meal at Grand Army,” he said.

But what’s the best way to begin one? According to Krieger, you’re wise to storm the gates as a four-top, so you can tastetest a few dishes. A safe bet is “The Bosses’ Cabinet,” a daily special that rotates every night. After that, you should probably plunge into The Plaza, a seafood platter that includes a dozen oysters and two raw bar selections. Next, the bread and butter that uses miche and shio kombu butter is essential, along with the Steak Tartare, seasonal crudités with tasty tips, and the Burrata with smoked salmon, curry, and pickled turmeric. Oh, and please, please try a few toasts.

So why did they want the food here to so light and lithe and why so dead-set against mainstays like burgers and fries?

“Chef Jon saw that we were looking for a chef, applied, came in to do a tasting, and blew our socks off,” Krieger recalled. “We hired him on the spot and love to watch him cook. At the time, there were absolutely no oyster bars in our area, and we thought creating a safe haven to slurp back bivales and sip some champagne seemed lovely. Jon has a huge bank of creativity and skill, and it comes together in a seriously beautiful way.”

Case in point: The Bloody Mary Platter. Just when you thought the last lifeblood had been strangled out of that cocktail (or, for that matter, brunch as a concept), this luxurious feast lets you create a perfect mid-morning meal for two: $70 gets you a veritable seafood extravaganza, complete with two drinks per person (one Bloody and one beer sidecar.) Fare is raw-bar oysters, clams, shrimp cocktail, plus crab legs, fresh veggies, and toast.

Be sure to come with an open mind and an empty stomach. “We have no time for nightmare customers,” Krieger said. “You know…those folks who apparently can’t have a good time no matter what. We want a room filled with people who can appreciate what it is we’re trying to do.”

Grand Army
336 State Street / 718.422.7867 / grandarmybar.com