TUCKED INTO A SLICE OF CARROLL GARDENS THAT HAD BEEN TOO LONG BAR-BEREFT, BLACK MOUNTAIN WINE HOUSE HAS BECOME AN OENOPHILE OASIS

BY CATHERINE GIGANTE-BROWN

With almost three dozen wines and more than 12 beers on the roster—plus a menu designed to compliment the potables—Black Mountain Wine House is thriving, even amid Brooklyn’s veritable sea of wine bars. Part of its charm is its uniqueness, and then there are its Fondue Tuesdays.

“We truly believe wine is the spice of life,” said manager Regina Myers, who owns the business with her husband, Tyler Maganzini. Together, they carefully crafted the extensive wine list.

Its name was inspired by the Led Zeppelin song “Black Mountain Side,” and its kitschy exterior is pure Appalachian chic, with clapboard siding and rustic seating. Inside, things are airy and homey, with a hodgepodge of mismatched tables and chairs, in addition to the spacious bar area. The lighting is rustic, too, complimented by lamp-shaded fixtures suspended from the tall ceilings and walls lined with built-in shelving festooned with ephemera. A blazing fireplace completes the winter-ready scene.

The wine list’s accent is on range, offering varietals for neophytes and connoisseurs alike—with more than 30 possibilities by the glass or bottle. (There’s also a curated half-bottle list.) Among the whites is Sauvignon Blanc Casa Julia, while the Echeverria Reserva 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon, from Molina, Chile, is one of the outstanding reds. Apertifs include Spain’s Pedro Ximinez sherry. The three Wine Blind Tasting ($10, from 3:00 to 6:00 weekdays) is a winning way to sample a trio of selections affordably.

The mixed drink menu’s emphasis is also on vino (since it’s within 200 feet of a school, hard liquor is verboten), but the choices are creative as well as delicious. Included are Sangria Rosada (by the glass or carafe), hot mulled red wine sweetened with exotic spices—perfect to enjoy by the fire on chilly winter evenings—and the Shider (see recipe at left).

The medium-sized plates were thoughtfully developed to complement the drink menu. “Smaller than traditional entrees and larger than tapas, three dishes shared by two is suggested for dinner,” offered Maganzini.

The specials rotate and change weekly. Fondue Tuesdays ooze a with Swiss-tastic melted cheese mélange. Maganzini’s mac and cheese is all grown up, with wild mushrooms, Gruyère, and truffle oil, while the goat cheese tart is revved up with roasted beets, potato, and balsimico. For carnivores, there are juicy pork meatballs with a spicy marinara.

Business is great, said Myers. “Our secret?” she pondered. “Building neighborhood regulars and caring about who your customers really are. Here, we’re friendly, low-key, non-snobs who just loooove wine!”

Black Mountain Wine House
415 Union Street / 718.522.4340 / blackmountainwinehouse.com