At June, a meticulously curated “natural” wine menu meets the romanticism of 1920s Paris

by Brendan Fitzgibbons

Across the street from the newly-opened June Wine Bar at 231 Court are no fewer than four restaurants (Brucie, Cobble Hill, Mooburger, and Watty & Meg), so it was a reasonable bet to founders Henry Rich and Tom Kearney that complementary libations were in order. And there was some serious savvy in the gamble; we have Rich to thank, after all, for the celebrated Boreum Hill eatery Ruccola, while Kearney of Farm on Adderley in Ditmas Park has rebranded New American in a fashion that has jaded local foodies fawning over the English muffin burger (and its accompanying fries).

For June, the team hired wine consultant and blogger Nick Gorevic to aid in amassing an impressively thorough list of what Kearney refers to as “natural” wines. While there is currently no official designation labeling a bottle as “natural,” the owner explained that the general definition of holistic wine is similar in its essentials—meaning one produced with little to no additional sulfates, color, or sugars.

In addition to serving tasty small plates, desserts, beer, craft cocktails, the bar offers wine by the glass, quartino (bud vasesize vessel of about seven ounces), and bottle in a rotating menu that varies weekly and will change completely each year.

And Kearney is personally invested in each of the natural selections on the menu.

“We go on several wine trips and try to choose producers who tend to make smaller batches of product,” he said. “That way we can build lasting relationships and really know what
we’re getting.”

The bar primarily focuses on serving Old World European varietals from Italy, Spain, and France—the bulk of the offerings Gallic, like a delectably refreshing Alsatian Riesling from Domaine Binner ($60) and a crisp Chablis from Gerard Duplessis ($96). There’s also a diversity of Californian labels, as well as a few small batch producers from upstate New York.

While the bar accentuates organic, biodynamic wine, owners maintain that it’s not reserved for the oenophile elite.

“I’ve been into these natural brands for a really long time but we’re not trying to indoctrinate people,” Kearney said.

“But we do want our bar to be the place where people who care about wine as well as members of the industry can come to make some significant discoveries.”

As a chef for 17 years, Kearney also put a holistic, natural touch on June’s small plate menu—one highlighted by stand- outs such as Pan-Seared Spanish Mackerel ($13), Acorn Squash Flatbread ($5), Slow-Cooked Carrots ($9), and Duck Rice ($11).

“Our menu is seasonally driven, and it’s not the sort of food you would normally find at a bar,” he explained. “The benefit of our small plates is meeting the need of someone looking to enjoy dinner, as well as another who wants to casually snack.”

The owner emphasized the importance of customers feeling welcome regardless of appetite, “One of the reasons why I think we’re unique to the neighborhood and to the city as a whole is that we are a wine bar in a relaxed setting where you aren’t obliged to eat,” he said.

June seats 50 people comfortably inside and will open a cozy backyard seating area in late May. Spearheaded by the design team at home (innovators behind the décor of Mast Brothers, Black Seed, Elsa, and Ramona), the train car-style interior is arranged with custom plasterwork, tables built with mahogany, leather, and steel, reclaimed 1920s tile, vintage stools and a smattering of vintage lighting—like stars at an outdoor soirée. “We wanted to evoke the feel of Paris in the early 20th century, but without constructing in a formulated way,” Kearney said. “I think the final product of the design is a space that evokes that time period, but still feels contemporary.”

Kearney and co-owner Rich chose the name June in part because of its popularity as a women’s name in the 1920s, and also in hope of giving the bar an optimistic, charming feel.

“With the name, we wanted to offer a distinct feminine voice…something sexy without being vulgar,” he said. “The aesthetic gives New Yorkers a chance to really experience a sense of romance, something that’s rare in the city.”

June
231 Court St. / 917.909.0434 / junebk.com