Coney Island Brewing Company captures endless summer, pint by micro-brewed pint

by Derek De Koff

The spirit of Coney Island—the rickety roller-coasters…the steely horizon beyond the Atlantic Ocean. The sideshow curiosities with their flippers and tattoos and glinting piercings. And…um, the malty backbone of a freezing, frothy Coney Island Lager.

Well, that last bit comes courtesy of Coney Island Brewing Company, a raucous establishment that, on any given night, is a simple mix of “great beer, great environment, and great company,” according to manager Chris Adams. And while you’re solely responsible for the last third of the list, you can rest assured Chris and Co. certainly uphold their end of the bargain.

The working brewery—which incidentally serves no food, wines, or spirits—includes a tasting room where adventurous beer enthusiasts can try out a handful of small-batch products they’ve likely never experienced before, all while picking up a few insider secrets (ssh!): brewing techniques, the careful way to choose and combine ingredients, and other alchemical tricks of the trade. They offer free tours and tastings every two hours, and guests are encouraged to bring their own food into the beer garden. Your dog is welcome, too. (But not welcome to try The Mermaid Pilsner. Sorry, Woofy.)

“We’re appealing to customers who want to learn, experiment, and have a blast with our staff,” Adams said. His advice to neophytes: “Come with an open mind, ask a ton of questions, and be willing to experience new tastes and sensations. We’re passionate about what we do, and we love to share that passion with our customers.”

The establishment began as a labor of love in 2007 in the hands of Jeremy Cowen of Schmaltz Brewing Company, the man behind those Coney Island Craft labels featuring the grabby artwork that distinguishes the brand from the other beers in the pack and on the rack.

On any given night, the place proudly serves a number of highly unusually brews on draft that serve as a testament to Cowen’s experimental approach. “The brewery and tasting room opened as a home to the Coney Island Beer Brand,” Adams explained. “We think that it’s very important to be located down in Coney, where we get all of inspiration for the beers and branding. Our hope is to be a catalyst to the South Brooklyn/Coney Island neighborhood to branch out to craft beer and brewing businesses, and have a blast while doing it.”

The bestselling Hard Root Beer is an excellent place to start—and believe us, it goes down easy. With subtle hints of vanilla, licorice, and birch, one sip will let you know what adventures await you.
Next up, try Freaktoberbest; a spookily complex pumpkin and espresso ale (made with Greenpoint’s Café Grumpy’s espresso beans) that tastes of caramel, cinnamon, and allspice, finished with sweet pumpkin. The Overpass IPA, a hearty tribute to the left-field artists and fabulous freaks of Dumbo’s days of yore, is bright, bitter, and bursting with juicy citrus and tropical hop aromas. After that, you owe it to yourself to shop around and wily-nily taste-test their colorful spectrum of styles. (Just make certain the latest creation, Russian Imperial Kvass on Nitro, is in there somewhere.) Our advice? Grab a flight or two, and try them all. And for those of you who consider Coney Island a trek, Growlers to-go are available, too.

Oh, but once the magic of Coney Island is in your blood, you’ll be back. They always come back.
“Our number one priority,” said Adams, “is creating a memorable experience that drives people to tell friends to visit; that they can’t wait to come back and experience brewery again.”

Coney Island Brewing Company
1904 Surf Avenue / 718.996.0019
coneyislandbeer.com