A vanguard mid-season designer, Zilli makes sharp cuts and unconventional material pairing a winning part of the new season

by Tia kim

Mid-season wear, for days that are neither frigid nor balmy, is a market sector where far too many designers fall down on the job. Either skipping the concept entirely or offering March looks that are dull recapitulations of resort wear, it’s actually difficult to find true innovators. Happily, the Italian house of Zilli is tirelessly at work making sharp cuts, unconventional material blends, and subtle hue contrasts (principally blue, black and bordeaux) components of a 2017 collection that makes us wish summer would never come. The Athos jacket, in glazed lambskin and with gorgeously retro quilting, cashmere sleeves, and a removable mink collar—and shorter and more fitted than we saw from the line last year—is a marvelous way to say something sartorially new, and is particularly well paired with Zilli’s crew neck sweater in cashmere and silk/cotton jeans with calfskin details.

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