HOW A GENUINE LOVE FOR THE MAGIC OF FOOD SHAPED THIS PUEBLA NATIVE’S JOURNEY FROM DISHWASHER TO EXECUTIVE CHEF OF AN ASBURY PARK ICON

BY WILL HARRIS PHOTOS BY ALEX BARRETO

Not every career path lends itself to the process of working your way up through the ranks, but it’s certainly the method that led Martin Ramos to the role of executive chef at Stella Marina in Asbury Park. Planted directly on the historic boardwalk with sweeping views of the beach and sea, the restaurant first opened its doors on 800 Ocean Avenue 15 years ago, which perhaps not coincidentally is how long Ramos has been part of the Stella Marina family.

“My brother used to work at Stella Marina as a line cook,” recalled Ramos. “He told me they were hiring, and that’s how I first came on board.”

Born in Puebla, Mexico, Ramos made his way to Asbury Park because his sister lived in Long Branch, but when he initially arrived, he’d yet to work his way into the culinary side of his career. He got his start as a dishwasher in restaurants, but he enjoyed working in the kitchen as well as watching the chefs in action, using their hands and creative talents to craft plates of pasta and seafood dishes. As such, he decided he wanted to learn how to make people happy by cooking incredible food.

“My favorite thing about Stella Marina is the opportunity it’s provided me,” said Ramos. “I started here as a line cook, and I just kept on moving up, learning a lot from all of the different roles I’ve held here.”

“When I started here at Stella Marina as a bartender, Martin was a line cook,” recalled Jason T horpe, general manager of the restaurant. “I’ve been the general manager now for six months, but I’ve been in the restaurant business for over 20 years, and I can say without a shadow of doubt that Martin is one of the finest chefs I’ve known. His passion for cooking is unlimited. He’s always thinking of new recipes and ideas on how he can become even better. If I owned a restaurant, I’d certainly be happy if Martin was my chef.”

It’s clear that Joseph Cetrulo agrees. As the owner of Stella Marina (along with Sirena Ristorante in Long Branch), he saw Ramos’ talents and potential when he offered him the role of head chef.

“I had a vision for what I wanted to do, and I was hoping I’d be able to stay here to fulfill it,” said Ramos. “You never know if you’re going to be able to do that. But the vision was always there.”

To keep the restaurant’s reputation for upscale, authentic Italian cuisine as consistent as possible, Ramos pointedly uses recipes from Italy, noting, “The food is almost the same as you’d get if you went to Italy.” Stella Marina is famed for its hyper-fresh seafood, prominent in dishes like steamed clams (made with fennel, garlic, cherry tomatoes, guanciale, and breadcrumbs) and handmade cavatelli pasta, finished with shrimp, broccoli, tomatoes, chili, and garlic. There’s also a cult-favorite Faroe Island salmon dish, featuring a fresh cut of fish dressed with pine nuts, white wine, lemon, tomatoes, sautéed spinach, and crispy potatoes.

For the head chef, his personal favorite dish on the menu is the pappardelle. It features a juicy helping of veal, beef, and pork sauce atop the house-made noodles, then finished with fennel seeds and mascarpone cheese.

“The recipe comes from Joe, our owner, who learned the recipe in Italy,” said Ramos. “It’s a little different than your normal Bolognese because we use a touch of cream.”

In his recipes, Ramos often experiments with ideas he’s seen in cookbooks, as well as dishes he’s enjoyed throughout different points in his life and career. He, of course, always adds his personal spin. “I just want to do great things for the restaurant and try to make people happy the best way that I can,” he said.

Ramos’ road to executive chef is, in many ways, rooted in family. His brother originally brought him to Stella Marina, where he’s developed a familial bond with everyone from the leadership and kitchen staff to the legions of loyalists who flock to the waterfront restaurant each year for seafood, Super Tuscan wine, and, now, Ramos’ specials.

“I met Martin last May when I joined the Stella Marina family of Trinity Hospitality Group,” said Jamie Antenucci, restaurant and event manager at Stella Marina. “I was able to gather right away that Martin was clearly a very talented chef, and also very passionate about everything he creates in the kitchen. From creating new menus each season, to weekly chef specials, he always finds a way to add his own flair to whatever it is he’s whipping up.

I work closely with Martin for all of our private events, as well as the weekly specials, and each week he is just as excited as he was the last to debut his new dishes. Some of them are his own take on traditional favorites, and some are entirely made up, but whatever dish Martin makes, I am always blown away by how delicious it is every time. Being a passionate person, it resonates in all of the food he prepares and you can tell he puts his heart into everything he makes.”

Stella Marina

800 Ocean Avenue, Asbury Park

732.775.7776 / stellamarinarestaurant.com