LOOKING AT THE PAST CAN OFTEN YIELD FRESH NEW IDEAS, IN THE KITCHEN AND THE DINING ROOM. THIS PERFECTLY GRILLED BEEF DISH AT RED HORSE BY DAVID BURKE IN RUMSON IS A PRIME EXAMPLE
BY CHEF DAVID BURKE
One of the many things I love about being a chef is I never stop learning. The history of food and beverages tells us a lot about people, cultures, available resources, trends, and tastes, plus social, political, and religious practices too. One 150-year-old culinary tradition is the Beefsteak: a boisterous, no-frills banquet popular in the mid-1800s in New York City run by political or social organizations. The Beefsteaks were for men-only and held in warehouses, alleys, or bars using rustic barrels and crates as tables and chairs. Sliced beef was served on platters with bread and horseradish sauce, and there were no plates, utensils, or napkins. Men were provided aprons to wipe their hands. Attendees were expected to eat with their fingers, and that was part of the fun. It was a frolicking feast without finery involving copious amounts of beef and beer.
My friend and mentor Waldy Malouf (former owner of the Beacon restaurant in NYC and now the senior director for the Culinary Institute of America) brought Beefsteaks back at his restaurant and as a fundraiser for the CIA. These sparked my idea for our bi-monthly What’s Your Beef events at Red Horse. I’ve refined it a bit. There are plates, silverware, and napkins, yes, but it focuses on the beef. (It’s a great deal, too.) You get popovers, clothesline bacon, a salad, three cuts of beef, steak house sides, and two glasses of wine or beer and dessert for $75+! During the dinner, either I or one of my capable staff discusses the different cuts of beef and what makes them unique. So, we throw in a little education too.
We only use prime beef at my restaurants. (Fun fact: only 2% of the beef sold in the United States is prime.) To dry-age the beef we use my U.S. patented method. We place whole sides of beef in specially designed walk-in refrigerators lined with pink-Himalayan salt bricks. The salt bricks help to evaporate the water in the beef, making it more tender and flavorful. The salt also permeates the meat adding a slight salinity to the beef, giving it that yummy umami flavor. The taste is rich and buttery, just incredible.
Now that it’s grilling season here’s my method for grilling the perfect steak. Home chefs should do what we do: Start with the best dry-aged beef you can find, and do as little to it as possible. Make sure your steak is at least two inches thick. Let it set at room temperature for 30 minutes. Just add salt and pepper liberally and brush with melted butter. Grill the steaks for four or five minutes to create a nice brown, charred (but not burnt) crust on both sides, then place them in a preheated 400-degree oven, or on a burner on your grill turned down to medium to low, for about 15-20 minutes or until the internal temperature is 120 degrees for rare, or 130 degrees for medium rare. Bonus: dry-aged beef does not require a lengthy rest after reaching your desired temperature. You really don’t need to add sauce but if you do, try our B1 Sauce by David Burke. And order your very own David Burke’s Santoku Steak Knife signature steak knife set, both available online at redhorsebydb.com or for pick-up at the restaurant. The knives slice through steak with ease. They are also perfect for general kitchen tasks and make great host gifts.
Or gather your friends and come to one of our What’s Your Beef events and let us take care of everything else, from shopping to cooking to clean up. Sit back and enjoy the best beef to be served in the country right here at Red Horse.
Red Horse by David Burke
26 Ridge Road, Rumson
732.576.3400