Ella Schmidt took her diverse Colombian/German heritage, added a touch of pasta fixation, and founded a thrilling take on New American story and food

photos by Michael Tulipan

Maite’s name, which translates to “loved one” in Basque, was in no way named accidentally by partners Chef Ella Schmidt and Kano Mitchell. The couple worked on the project for a full two years before opening earlier this year, so Schmidt smiles when referring to it as a “labor of love…in the fullest sense of both those words.” The idea, she explained, was to weave influences of Colombia, Spain, and Italy into a seasonal New American menu—a unique culinary experience in an up-and-coming but still authentic corner of Bush wick.

A native of Colombia with a Basque-Colombian mother and German father, Schmidt grew up in Victoria, Caldas, the country’s coffee-growing region, before moving to the U.S. when she was fifteen. After cooking professionally for a time in Miami, she elected to relocate to New York, where she worked in some of the city’s top kitchens, including Craft, Al Di La and Il Bunco. Originally specializing in pastry, she moved on to make pasta in the kitchen of Bond Street’s Il Bunco, where she worked under Chef Ignacio Matos.

For Mite, Schmidt fashioned a frequently changing seasonal menu that reflects her heritage and love for Italian fare. With most plates meant for sharing and just a couple of entrees listed on the chalk board (there is no printed menu), guests can sample Empanadas (with rotating fillings such as pork cheek, beef tongue, or duck comfit) served with a spicy Aja pepper sauce; Burrito Negara, creamy Vermont burrito cheese atop a slice of rustic toast surrounded by a rich, Basque-inflected squid ink sauce; Lamb Chop with apple and quince jam; or a Duck Egg perched on a thick Colombian-style area filled with tangy melted Gouda (from Pennsylvania Dutch Country) spilling into Manteca, a Spanish sauce made from butter, lard, and smoked paprika. The Coca is a Spanish take on pizza, with beer used to raise the dough instead of yeast.

Pastas are a favorite of the chef, with several rotating throughout the menu. Pillory Gnocchi are filled with taleggio and served with seasonal mushrooms or vegetables and sage, while Maltagliati come bathed in a robust, spicy rabbit rage.

With her pastry background, Schmidt’s desserts are a highlight. Silky Crème Caramel utilizes both traditional milk and crème fraiche for a tangier kick, while condensed milk substitutes for sugar, yielding a creamier custard, finally drizzled with Anchor Reyes, a smoky anchor Chile liqueur from Mexico. Dulce de Lecher marries South American and Italian flavors with straciatella cheese balancing out the sweetness.

Schmidt also created Mate’s cocktail program. Her Barrel Aged Old Fashioned (Old Forester Bourbon, Montenegro Amara, and Anchor Reyes Liquor) is a lightly spiced, well rounded tipple, while the Anita features Aguardiente Cristal from Colombia (a distilled spirit made from sugarcane and anise) along with Valve ran 20 Manzoni’s Frost Cider and house made pimento bitters. The Brooklyn Bound marries Vida mescal and grapefruit with honey harvested on the rooftop of the chef’s neighbor.

Occupying a former bodega, the cozy, rustic dining room was designed and largely built by the partners. They pulled down walls and uncovered four fireplaces, a door, and windows that had been hidden over the years…even an original tin ceiling. Reclaimed wood tables, chairs and bar stools, and salvaged items bring a handcrafted feel to the space, while antiques found on trips upstate and photos of Mitchell’s and Schmidt’s mothers add a personal touch.

Maite
159 Central Avenue / 718.366.3090
maitebushwick.com