TUCKED INTO THE FERAL FORESTS OF THE RWANDAN WILD, THIS SUPER SWANKY SAFARI CAMP OFFERS INTREPID EXPLORERS THE OPPORTUNITY TO COME FACE TO-FACE WITH ONE OF AFRICA’S RAREST AND MOST MAGNIFICENT CREATURES, THE MOUNTAIN GORILLA
BY AMANDA McCOY
Summer is dry season in Rwanda, and the crisp, high-altitude air of Volcanoes National Park is a perfect 75 degrees as you trek through thickets of old-growth trees and dense vegetation. A thick, pungent musk hits your senses, and the guide signals they’re nearby. Then come the sounds, a symphony of bassy chest beats and high pitched screams, before you find yourself face-to-face with an 850-lb silverback gorilla. You watch in awe as vignettes unfold all around you: toddlers jovially tumbling about, infants clinging to their mother’s chest, adults foraging for food. It’s a soul-shaking experience, a precious peek into the lives of the magnificent primate. Today, there are only an estimated 1,000 silverbacks left in the wild.
Gorilla trekking is the signature experience at Bisate, an ultra-luxurious tented safari camp in the Rwanda rainforest. Operated by the African-based, high-end ecotourism company Wilderness Safaris, Bisate boasts just six villas, spacious domed suites crafted from thatch and bamboo and folded into the feral forest scape.
Each villa stretches nearly 1,000 square feet and boasts deluxe finishes like a central fireplace, emerald green accents, chevron floors, a freestanding metal bath tub, and a dedicated reception area with a comfy daybed. Outside, sweeping views of Bisoke, Karisimbi, and Mikeno volca noes paint the sky as guests sip espresso from their private terrace, wrapped in feather-light robes.
Founded as a small safari operation in 1983, Wilderness Safaris now operates 60 camps and mobile safaris in Botswana, Kenya, Namibia, Rwanda, South Africa, Zambia, and Zimbabwe. It’s a well-known leader in conservation efforts of the Sub-Saharan wild, noting in a company statement that it helps to protect more than 2.3 million hectares across seven biomes, and the 33 IUCN Red List of threatened species that call the lands home. The company is also involved in myriad community empowerment projects, promoting local artisans, investing in philanthropic initiatives, and awarding scholarships for local children.
Each lodge is a love letter to the culture and raw splendor of its natural setting. Bisate’s culinary program, for instance, sources from community farms and purveyors, and there’s a lush vegetable and herb garden on the property with more than 20 different varietals, as well. Chefs strive to use every part of an ingredient to cut back on food waste.
Meals are included with every stay, and feature fresh, colorful presentations of farm-to-table fare. Breakfast is casual, served buffet style with in-house baked breads and lattes topped with sprinkles in the shape of a gorilla. The lunch menu offers a slate of simple, healthy dishes like exotic salads from the lodge’s vegetable garden, baked fish, and chicken skewers served with scratch made salsa. Dinner offerings change nightly, boasting prominently traditional Rwandan flavors with global influences. Think meats, fish, and pastas accented with wild honey, avocado, mango, kale, papaya, plantains, and chilies. Be sure to dedicate at least one night to the traditional Rwandan meal, served in hand-woven grass and reed baskets and decorative jugs.
There’s also an elegant cocktail bar encircled with floor-to-ceiling windows, a romantic wine cellar with thousands of labels, a tree nursery, library, gift shop with locally crafted curios, and jungle spa to indulge in a deeply nourishing massage after a long day’s odyssey through the volcanic forest. The lodge offers a range of gripping wildlife experiences. The gorilla trek is of course a can’t-miss, but don’t neglect the bird walk through natural trails home to more than 200 species of birds. Adventurists can scale the jagged, mist-cloaked face of Mount Bisoke, one of the eight volcanoes in the Virunga mountain range. Cultural activities include a guided nursery visit to learn about Wilderness’ reforestation initiatives (where guests are invited to plant a tree!) and a trip to the local farmers market with the lodge’s chef to help select the day’s ingredients.
This September, Wilderness is expanding its Rwanda footprint with the opening of a sister property, dubbed Bisate Reserve. Planted on the rim of the same extinct volcano, the even-more-exclusive retreat features just four villas, each spanning a massive 2,200 square feet and finished with private hot tubs and two fireplaces. Plans for the expansion took shape several years ago, when Wilderness leaders planted more than 100,000 trees in the area, transforming the former agriculture site into a thriving forest. Here, guests will be treated to vistas of six volcanos, including the towering 14,787 foot Karisimbi, one of the tallest peaks in Africa.
Rooms begin at $2,590 per guest per night for Bisate Lodge, and $3,200 for Bisate Reserve.
Bisate Lodge