IT MAY BE HIGH WINTER, BUT WE HAVE THE PERFECT SOUPY ANTIDOTE
BY CHEF DAVID BURKE
One of our most popular dishes at Drifthouse and Nauti Bar particularly on days when snow swirls and wind is fueled by the frigid surfis New England Clam Chowder. For years, though, there has been a running argument over the merits of the New England variety versus its Manhattan cousin. I love them both, but settled on a New England recipe for my cookbook, David Burke’s New American Classics: Brilliant Variations on Traditional Dishes for Everyday Dining, Entertaining, and Second Day Meals (Alfred A. Knopf, 2006, co-authored by Judith Choate), because of its rich, creamy base and delicious clam flavors melded with smoky bacon. It’s a luxury any time of year.
Of course, if you can get local clams, go for ’em, because in my opinion some of the best come from Sandy Hook Bay.
NEW ENGLAND CLAM CHOWDER (serves six)
3 pounds cherrystone or littleneck
clams, cleaned and scrubbed
3 strips bacon, finely diced
1 large Idaho potato, peeled and cubed
¾ cup minced onion
¼ cup minced celery
1 clove garlic, minced
1 bay leaf
2 cups chicken stock
2 russet potatoes, peeled and cubed
2 stalks celery, diced
Coarse salt and freshly-ground pepper
1 cup heavy cream
2 tablespoons fresh chives, minced
Dried celery leaves
Oyster crackers
PREPARATION: Using a stiff bristled vegetable brush, scrub clams under cool running water to remove sand and grit. Set aside.
Place bacon in a large saucepan over medium heat and fry (stirring frequently) for about five minutes or until the bacon is crisp and the fat is rendered out. Using a slotted spoon, remove half of the bacon and place it on top of a paper towel to drain. Set aside.
Add cubed potato to the saucepan, along with minced onion, celery, and garlic. Cook, stirring constantly, for two minutes. Add the bay leaf and clams. Cover and steam for about 10 minutes, or until all clams have opened. Using a slotted spoon, remove them from the saucepan and discard any that have not opened. Set aside. Add chicken stock to the saucepan and bring it to a simmer. Lower heat and cover. Simmer for 10 minutes, then remove the stock from the heat. Remove and discard the bay leaf.
While the chicken stock mixture is simmering, remove the meat from half of the clams and cut each piece in half. Discard half the shells and reserve the remaining clams and meat.
Using a food processor fitted with a metal blade, process the chicken stock mixture to a smooth purée and transfer to a clean saucepan. Add the diced potatoes and celery and place over medium heat. Season to taste with salt and pepper and bring to a simmer. Cover and simmer for 10 minutes, or until the potatoes are almost tender. Stir in the cream and again bring to a simmer (for five minutes). Add the reserved bacon and clam meat, along with a tablespoon of chives and cook for an additional minute or two, or until the soup is very hot.
Pour equal portions of the clams (in their shells) into six shallow bowls. Ladle the hot soup over the top, garnish with the remaining chives, and serve piping hot with oyster crackers.
Winter chill solved!
Drifthouse & Nauti Bar by David Burke
1485 Ocean Avenue, Sea Bright / 732.530.9760 drifthousedb.com,
nautibardb.com, chefdavidburke.com