A Bangladeshi-born chef, who previously worked behind the line in Calcutta and London, opens a badly needed, exotically seasoned, and “delicious” Grand street grill

by Derek de Koff

Williamsburg’s simply been aching for a truly high-quality Indian restaurant for some time, so we imagined loud hosannas ringing up and down Grand Street when Tikka Indian Grill set up shop in October. (Pizzerias, after all, are covered.)

Owner and Executive Chef Mallika Khan bases her concisely curated menu around her mom’s recipes—a blend of sprightly Bengali and Northeast Bangladesh dishes. Like mom, the Bangladeshi-born chef—who’s previously worked in Calcutta and London— makes all her spices fresh, drying and grinding them by hand. Each dish is prepared with ingredients handpicked from local Indian grocers and farmers’ markets. (Friendly, hands-on co-owner Syed Hossain worked previously at BR Guest and Jean Georges restaurants, and most recently served as bar captain at the Gansevoort Hotel.)

After taking in the straightforward décor and ambiance (the large mural’s bright brush-strokes; rows of ornamental spice jars lining the shelves; and the subliminally soothing strum of the background music), we suggest asking for a jar of thick, rich mango lassie to get started. It’s fruity and bracing, and pairs well with your preferred brew, should you opt to take advantage of their BYOB policy. (They’re awaiting a liquor license as we go to press, but smuggling in your own beer admittedly makes for an illicit allure, so consider it.)

To wake the palette, an appetizer like the papa dam crackers packs considerable crunch-punch, served alongside onion chutney, cardoon chutney, and tamarind sauce, all to make you cry “insouciant zest!” after every few bites. (But don’t.)

Those with light appetites are invited to peck through a slew of smallish dishes—bites of Chicken Malai Tikka (tandoor-fired chicken with mango raisin chutney); Tawa Lamb Kabab (pan fried minced lamb with apricot chutney), and crisp Paanch Poran Jhinga (tossed shrimp, five spiced). The generous entrees like Tandoor Chicken (skewered chicken on the bone from their tandoor) and Chicken Vindaloo (vinegar infused red chili paste with ginger) are rounded out by a voluminous assortment of vegetarian dishes like Paneer Saag Kofta and seven surprisingly satisfying vegan choices (Aloo Gobi, Tarkari, and Chana Masala among them.) Hint: The chef is personally partial to the Shrimp Malai curry and the lamb chops, while popular favorites include the Chennai Lamb and Chicken Saag Tikka.

Are you one of those difficult people who makes honking, unreasonable requests to the wait staff while we pretend there’s an earthquake and duck under the table? You’re in luck, princess.
Every item—from the bread to the sauces to the naan—is made in-house daily.
Should you happen to scan the menu and not find the difficult and obscure dish you so desperately crave, the ever amenable staff is willing to create your meal on the spot, because they’re nicer than we are. (Don’t request pizza.)

And can dessert be requested? Yes indeed. Anyone who still has a sweet tooth after engulfing all the pungent spices and seasonings are directed to the kheer (rice pudding) or our secret weakness, gulab jamun (fried milk balls in sugar syrup, which are hardcore deli-cious.)

A wonderful array of everything, to be sure, and every item—from the bread to the sauces to the naan—is made in-house daily. With its speedy service and seriously affordable price range, Tikka is a welcome addition to Williamsburg’s ever-erupting eatery scene, and warrants raising a glass. (You did remember to bring that moonshine, didn’t you?)

Tikka Indian Grill
185 Grand Street / 718.768.2262 / tikkawilliamsburg.com